Circular Saw Recommendations?

[Gareth]

Any recommendations for a circular saw for occasional DIY projects?

I would like to use it mainly for accurately and neatly cutting wood, chipboard and similar materials, probably by clamping a straight edge to the wood to guide the saw. My excuse for buying it is to build a fitted wardrobe but it's something I would quite like to have for other DIY tasks as well.

I was looking at a Bosch PKS 55A which appears to be designed for what I want - any comments? The 160mm blade seems to be smaller than a lot of similarly prices saws - is that a bad thing?

I also quite like the look of the Evolution Fury 1 and it's cheaper than the Bosch. The idea of a single blade which cuts anything is good. However I don't see myself wanting to cut though wood with nails in it and I don't want to compromise on accuracy for a feature I'm unlikely to use.

Am I right in thinking the finish of cut and the types of materials it can cut is a function of the type of blade - e.g. if I bought the Evolution Fury I could buy a fine cut wood blade for it and if I bought the Bosch I could buy a metal cutting blade?

Thanks for any recommendations.

[stuart noble]

Cuts 55mm depth, which covers 2" timber. Don't think I've ever needed to cut anything thicker than that. They all cut as well as the blade you're using, so I tend to spend bugger all on the saw itself and treat myself to decent blades.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Agreed. The quality of the blade is the most important thing. Also check how easy it is to set the cutting depth. My circular saw is an ancient B&D Tradesman which works well - but is awkward to set the depth on.

[Dom Ostrowski]

Check out the diy faq on sawboards:

depth of cut is useful when cutting bevels/chamfers, or stacking boards to cut multiples simultaneously and identically.

Having said that, I gave away my little 160mm skilsaw, when I needed something larger with more clout - I sometimes wish I had it back as it was such a little kitten to handle.

Whatever you buy, make sure blades are readily available. Also look for a good quality blade guard that both retracts and returns easily (sometimes it's useful to retract it by hand for plunge cuts), even on awkward cuts. Also good quality, easy to use adjustments, and a long mains lead.

[Scott M]

And availability. I've got a B&D (sigh, it was a xmas pressie) circ saw that seems to have been entirely sold on the premise that it's an odd size[1] blade which B&D themselves don't even sell. S'fix & TS do do replacement blades in this size but there's a very limited choice compared to other sizes.

[stuart noble]

Wise words

[TheOldFellow]

Think light weight, not Big Blade. Unless you're build like Schwartznegger. If it's light you will be accurate, it it's heavy you will spend 10 times longer than the cut setting up the jigs.

Power tools: It's always worth paying for a Makita, Metabo, or equivalent. I say this every time I am tempted to buy something else, whenever I give in and buy a cheapo I regret it.

Blades are another thing where cheap isn't necessarily good. When you say "metal cutting", do you mean cutting sheet metal, or not being bu..ered by the occasional nail? I would never, ever, want to cut sheet metal with a hand held circular saw, jigsaw, maybe, but the velocity of swarf from a circular saw does not bear thinking about - you might be lucky and see it once....

R.

[The Natural Philosopher]

alumninum cuts well with wood saws.

[Tim Lamb]

In message , TheOldFellow writes

I have used the Fury demolition saw on sheet metal. Mainly the double skinned foam sandwich roofing. Most of the swarf is collected in a compartment forming part of the blade guard. Mine cost £30.00 from B+Q several years back. Eye protection is wise.

I have since fitted mine with a conventional TC blade for wood. It is a heavy piece of kit and the depth control is a bit clunky. Otherwise I don't plan to rush out and buy anything else.

regards

[The Medway Handyman]

Makita circular saws are IMV very disappointing - I gave mine to SIL & bought an AEG. Very flimsy blade guard & cheap sheet metal base plate.

+1

[The Medway Handyman]

Indeed. I'd add to that a riving knife that can be removed - or a saw without one - which seems to becoming more common.

[Gareth]

didn't think of like "make the board wide enough that there's room to clamp it without getting in the way of the saw?s motor". Thanks.

Good points - thanks.

[Gareth]

Yes, good point - I had a look at some in B&Q and the larger ones are rather heavy.

What do you consider to be equivalent?

I say this every time I am tempted to buy something else,

I want it for cutting wood but looking on various websites I see that most circular saws can also cut metal and some even cut stone (with the right blade of course) and I thought that could be useful in the future. I'm not currently planning any metal cutting.

[Gareth]

Thanks - I've only just found out what one of those is.

[Gareth]

Good point - thanks

[Newshound]

Some people are a bit sniffy about green Bosch, but I've had (and abused) a PKS 45 for many years and it's still my main workhorse. Stripped a drive gear a few years ago, but spares readily available and not expensive. I did upgrade the blade fairly early on.

[Newshound]

The other point, if you will be cutting much sheet material (ply, MDF, chipboard), very first job is to make yourself two saw-boards (one 4 foot, one 8 foot) using 9 or 12 mm ply.

[Bob Eager]

Yes, I wanted a saw that wasn't a large, heavy 'in your face' job. The Bosch was my choice, and the first thing I did was change the blade.

[The Medway Handyman]

Circular saws cut wood. End of.

[Steve Walker]

They do seem to work well on PVC too.

SteveW