Circular saw handedness

[Stuart Noble]

The idea of the saw running in grooves with no possibility of straying one way or the other is fine in principle, but it depends on there being zero movement of the workpiece (as is the case on a vertical panel saw). An 8x4 sheet straddled across sawhorses will sag slightly as it's cut, and the blade will bind. You're better assuming that the area to left of the blade is the workpiece, and the bit to the right is the offcut. I've been using circular saws for years, but I still get 8x4s cut to size by a timber merchant

[michael adams]

I always cut full sheets on the floor. Always have done. Plus any large sizes. Poles from Estate Agents signs are readily available for free ATM and make excellent spacers for underneath. Cutting on the floor also cuts down on dust as it starts from 4 ft lower down and a lot goes underneath the sheet in any case

michael adams

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[Bolted]

erf when marking

=A0 =A0 =A0 [e-mail]

Best way is a sheet of celotex underneath, set the saw to just kiss the surface.

(Albeit with the Festool) It is easy to cut as and probably more accurately than a timber merchant will (how many merchants do you reckon dust cuts rather than relying on the factory edge?)

[Stuart Noble]

When they're being paid per cut, they certainly don't rely on the factory edge :-) However you look at it, 8x4s are a PITA unless you have a van and a large area to lay it out in the dry. I've done it in the past but I really can't be arsed at my time of life.

[soup]

So a lot of measuring, clamping, marking, etc you are not cutting for a couple of hours. Or are you saying the measuring, clamping, marking etc take virtually no time and it takes you a couple of hours to perform 50 cuts. 2½ mins or so for a (being generous) 750mm cut, that is one blunt blade.

Mind you two hours is a long time to be at one task (for a DIYer/hobbyist. I suppose a 'tradesman' would do that sort of time all the time) I would have had two tea breaks and a sit down as well so most tasks take me twice as long as anyone else.

[michael adams]

Guess.

Really? I'd like to see the state of your house then. Most DIY'ers take considerably longer over almost any job than a tradesman. Both through lack of experience, not always having the best possible tools for the task to hand, and taking that extra bit of care. 2 hours is nothing.

michael adams

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[Bolted]

Whenever I've been to a merchant and bought cut panels (and waited, and watched) they've just bunged it through against the rip fence. Admittedly that's a selection of two yards and a B&Q (which doesn't count).

Fair enough. I don't find them too bad yet, unless it is 25mm+ stuff.

[John Rumm]

You rang?

ok sorted...

It now points to:

[Rob]

Very interesting thread - and a chance to ask something very related: I have a rail system (highly recommended) from Holz-Her (now taken over by . . ). I have long been looking for a jig to use the system for cross cutting, often short, thin lengths, such as 25x60mm cross section.

When cutting a panel, it is easy to keep the panel stationary and move the saw. When cross-cutting - especially if the workpiece is narrow - it is difficult to keep the workpiece stationary. Both parts, workpiece and saw, moving is disaster-land.

Any ideas and/or experience for a quick-to-set-up, universal cross-cut jig ? (No, I do not want to spend money or bench space on a miter saw - the made-for-purpose alternative.)

Rob

[soup]

2 Hours on a task is indeed nothing (you were the one who said sawing for a couple of hours was tiring)it is just what most people would do in two I do in four. Then again two hours is a long time to be doing one action. In your OP you intimated you were doing nothing but using a circular saw for "a couple of hours" you have since amended that to measuring, marking, clamping etc and then sawing (say 12 minutes sawing over two hours) and that tires you (or rather you can find it tiring). I'd hate to see the state of anyone's house who gets tired after twelve minutes of sawing over a two hour period.

[michael adams]

I was sawing wood for a couple of hours. That's correct

I haven't amended anything. You're the only person who seems to have trouble in understanding the fact that the activity of sawing wood also involves marking up and clamping. You and nobody else.

For a start marking up involves concentration. Double checking to make sure the measurements are correct etc. etc. Concentrating hard on anything over a protracted period can prove tiring in itself. Didn't you realise that ?

Anyway, whether you choose to believe me or not, is entirely up to you.

As I no longer care.

michael adams

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[The Medway Handyman]

Sawboard.

[The Medway Handyman]

I'd still say it isn't tiring. Try doing this sort of thing 60 hours a week & you will appreciate tiring. A sawboard makes this task simple & 100% accurate & is made it minutes from scrap.

I'd also still maintain that using a circular saw with a decent sharp blade isn't tiring. If it is you need a new blade or a new saw.

[michael adams]

Good for you.

Whereas it is for me.

People are all different, you see Dave.

That's just a lesson in life you're just going to have to learn I'm afraid.

Or maybe it's already too late, who's to know ?

< blunt saw nonsense snipped >

michael adams

patronising - moi ?

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>

[Stuart Noble]

We all have our own thresholds. These days hoovering gives me a back ache because, although it doesn't need much effort, I find I'm stooping (I'm pretty tall).

[Jon Fairbairn]

hardboard for the underneath part (smooth side down). This means that (once the sawboard is in position) if I put a piece of scrap hardboard right up to the edge of the base of the sawboard, breakout is negligible on both sides of the cut. Since I've only made one so far, I'm not sure what the disadvantages of doing it that way are.

I don't have that first one right now (and it was rather short anyway), and don't have any hardboard, so the next one will be 6mm mdf (because I do have that), so I may discover advantages of using something 6mm thick quite soon...

[Jon Fairbairn]

/short/ sawboard. :-)

[The Medway Handyman]

I use 3mm ply to gain extra cutting depth. My saw is a 160mm blade and cuts

51mm max.

[The Medway Handyman]

Must be blunt, no other reason to have to force a saw.

Pillock - oui.

[michael adams]

Who said anything about forcing anything ?

I certainly didn't.

I said its necessary to press the saw firmly against the fence.

An aspect of the whole operation which you want to ignore for some strange reason.

So in effect you're pushing the saw in two directions simultaneosly sideways against the fence and forward into the cut.

Or maybe that point had never ocurred to you before ?

Anyway.

10 or 12 spam links a day engaging in pointless arguments over nothing and you're already in at no 5 behind Kent Handyman there.

But not with me any more unfortunately.

Bysie bye.

michael adams

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