chipboard screws

[Fred]

Hi,

I was hoping to buy some chipboard screws but then I noticed that:

suspiciously like plasterboard screws, which I already have.

they the same or are there subtle differences in the thread, which is not apparent from the photos on these web sites. Is it best to buy chipboard screws for chipboard or are they the same screws just with different labels on their boxes?

Whilst searching I also found mdf screws:

can understand chipboard needing special screws because so much of it is space but why does mdf need a special screw?

TIA

[The Medway Handyman]

> look suspiciously like plasterboard screws, which I already have. >

> Are they the same or are there subtle differences in the thread, which

I use SF Turbo Gold for pretty much everything. Do exactly what they say on the tin. Brilliant product.

[NT]

You can use any type of coarse thread screw in chipboard. The design differences that exist make minor differences, but nothing thats normally significant in diy work with chipboard. PB screws are great, and can be used for lots of things, chip included.

NT

[Stuart Noble]

I've got both, and I don't detect a difference.

[Fred]

Thanks, that will save me the cost of buying any more; I'll use the plasterboard ones I already have.

[Fred]

Are they any different to any other single threaded screw? I'm wondering whether the ones I bought from Tool station are the same with a different label or whether I have got an inferior product!

[Andy Dingley]

bugle heads in most things - especially soft timber where you're not planning to cut the countersink first.

[Neil]

Can PB screw be used on external work. I've heard arguments against and for, but never had a clear cut assurance.

[The Medway Handyman]

Turbo Gold are markedly different from the links you posted.

't praise them enough. Only thing I don't use them for is fixing into wall plugs, for that I use Quicksilver.

[Dave Liquorice]

I don't use anything other than brass or stainless steel outside. Fed up of having to replace rust with 1/2mm steel core holding down spouts on etc.

[NT]

Bright zinc & black phosphor ones rust after a bit. So yes, for temporary structures like sheds

NT

[PeterC]

For my shed I used Turbo Ultra Screws in stainless steel - I don't consider the shed to be /that/ temporary (it should last 25 years or more) and most of the fasteners are not replaceable. Also used st. st. ring nails from Wickes. Only some angle brackets (easy access) and the roofing nails are not stainless and they're passivated zinc plate; I hate BZP.

[Andy Dingley]

PB screws can be used outside just as well as other non-rustproof screws can be used. So not as well as stainless or the green-coated decking screws, a little bit better than bare steel or even gold screws (what is that? I'm asssuming it's no longer cadmium).

I've also heard they're brittle, but then never had a problem myself.

[Dave Osborne]

Cadmium plating is somewhat deprecated due to toxicity and environmental factors in the plating process. It is, however, better than zinc plating and is often used for military and aerospace applications.

General fasteners are mild steel with bright zinc plate and passivation. This is referred to as BZP&P or just BZP.

The passivation process is an extra step beyond the the BZP, and is optional, but I can't imagine any manufacturer would not passivate fasteners. I may be wrong.

Basic passivation is called "clear passivation" and allows the colour of the "bright zinc" to show through.

The chemicals used for passivation can be formulated to impart a colour to the passivation coating.

The usual alternative to clear passivation is "iridescent yellow" or just "yellow" passivation, which kind of looks like dull greeny-gold.

Some companies assert that yellow passivation has better corrosion resistance than clear passivation (mainly because the coating is thicker) however, on an absolute scale, BZP&P is not particularly good (not as long lasting as sherardising, cad plate, hot-dip galvanising, etc and certainly not as effective as using an inherently better base material such as brass, copper, stainless steel, etc.)

For "ordinary" countersunk steel woodscrews, as a general rule, Screwfix, Toolstation and Spax use the different colours so you can distinguish between single-threaded (e.g. goldscrews, turbo-gold) and double-threaded screws (e.g. quicksilver).

Aluminium anodising is a form of passivation and here you can get (among others) clear, yellow, black, red, blue, green, drab olive, and purple passivation. This is commonly seen e.g. on heatsinks and enclosures for in-car entertainment.

[Bolted]

One feature of PB screws is that they are pretty highly hardened (so they can be used with galvanised studding, I assume), and hence rather brittle and prone to snap. I made a workbench from torsion box panels built up from plywood and pine, using up a tub of over-ordered PB screws in the process. Even having pilot drilled the lot, quite a few snapped.

[Fred]

Sorry if I am being thick but the abbreviation "PB" has been used in a few replies. Since we were talking about plasterboard and chipboard screws, can I double check is "PB" plasterboard or particle board?

Thanks.

[Bolted]

I meant plasterboard, can't speak for anyone else.