Chimney flashing slipped

[Jason Judge]

Okay, this is not *my* DIY, but I would like to just be knowledgeable enough to argue the case with the roofer - if it comes to that. I'd be grateful for any of the usual sage-like advice of this group :-)

I got my chimney rebuilt last year, which included lead flashing. I noticed a year later that some of the flashing has slipped. Here are some photos of the result:

guess is that the mortar used to hold the flashing in, was not thick enough, or not mixed right, and/or the lead not pushed deep enough into the chimney brickwork. Can you tell from the photos what the likely cause is?

We have had some pretty string winds here this year, but I was expecting this flashing to stay put for many years yet.

-- Jason

[Jonathan]

ugh to argue the case with the roofer - if it comes to that. I'd be gratefu= l for any of the usual sage-like advice of this group :-)

ed a year later that some of the flashing has slipped. Here are some photos= of the result:

nough, or not mixed right, and/or the lead not pushed deep enough into the = chimney brickwork. Can you tell from the photos what the likely cause is?

this flashing to stay put for many years yet.

As I understand it, apart from the mortar, the flashing should have been wedged in place with small rolls of lead.

Jonathan

[Jason Judge]

e enough to argue the case with the roofer - if it comes to that. I'd b= e grateful for any of the usual sage-like advice of this group :-)

noticed a year later that some of the flashing has slipped. Here are some p= hotos of the result:

ick enough, or not mixed right, and/or the lead not pushed deep enough into= the chimney brickwork. Can you tell from the photos what the likely cause = is?

ting this flashing to stay put for many years yet.

Ah, thanks. That makes sense. I'll look around the ground to see if any lea= d has fallen out (and is not stuck in the guttering). I just want as much e= vidence as I can to find out what went wrong, and hopefully some requiremen= ts to pass on when it gets repaired, such as, "I wanna lead-wedge".

-- Jason

[Bob Minchin]

enough to argue the case with the roofer - if it comes to that. I'd be grateful for any of the usual sage-like advice of this group :-)

noticed a year later that some of the flashing has slipped. Here are some photos of the result:

enough, or not mixed right, and/or the lead not pushed deep enough into the chimney brickwork. Can you tell from the photos what the likely cause is?

this flashing to stay put for many years yet.

has fallen out (and is not stuck in the guttering). I just want as much evidence as I can to find out what went wrong, and hopefully some requirements to pass on when it gets repaired, such as, "I wanna lead-wedge".

That is just bad workmanship - get him back in to fix it properly - with out any bill! You should be expecting 10s of years service from flashing.

[Andrew Gabriel]

to argue the case with the roofer - if it comes to that. I'd be grateful for any of the usual sage-like advice of this group :-)

year later that some of the flashing has slipped. Here are some photos of the result:

Person doing it didn't know what they were doing, and looks to have tried to stick the lead to the brick faces with mortar.

Did you lend him your butter knife, or did he use his thumb?

enough, or not mixed right, and/or the lead not pushed deep enough into the chimney brickwork. Can you tell from the photos what the likely cause is?

Person who did it didn't have a clue what they were doing. It was bound to fail.

flashing to stay put for many years yet.

Should last for 70 years, with perhaps one or two maintenance visits during that period.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

It looks like it didn't go into the bricks at all.

There are two ways of doing it - stepped flashing where you cut the lead to match existing mortar courses. This is raked out to a depth of about 1" and the lead folded into the recess. Held in place with lead 'wedges' - then the pointing made good. Other way is to cut a groove across the bricks with an angle grinder.

The former is the traditional way and needs more skill. And more lead. But modern power tools make the latter way easier. Either will be find and last near forever if properly done. Which yours doesn't look like it was.

[Phil L]

+1, except I think he's pointed it using either a spoon or a catapult.

On a rebuild, the lead should have gone in at least 40mm, this looks like he's raked 10mm out with his spoon and just pointed the lead in afterwards

[Jason Judge]

ugh to argue the case with the roofer - if it comes to that. I'd be gra= teful for any of the usual sage-like advice of this group :-)

ed a year later that some of the flashing has slipped. Here are some photos= of the result:

nough, or not mixed right, and/or the lead not pushed deep enough into the = chimney brickwork. Can you tell from the photos what the likely cause is?

this flashing to stay put for many years yet.

Thanks for you help, everyone. I suspect I'm going to have to get a report = written up, and the rest of the flashing inspected. No-one taking short-cut= s like that is going to own up to it without a fight. I paid for a job to b= e done, and it looks like it wasn't done.

-- Jason

[Phil L]

Not really, it's a 15 minute job, with zero cash layout to rectify, if you just ask him in a reasonable manner, he'll probably turn up and sort it out....he's hardly likely to put up any kind of 'fight' as it will cost him nothing to put right. Don't waste money getting 'a report written up', you've had several written up for you, here, and free of charge.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Looking at the pics I'd say the folded in part isn't long enough. I reckon on at least an inch - others have said near twice that. Lead expands and contracts a lot on a roof so needs to be well secured.

[Phil L]

Yep, the two foot piece needs taking out, folding at 40mm, then wedging and pointing in, no big deal and the piece is overlapped onto the tiles a good

150mm so he can sacrifice a bit of that for the fold.

[george - dicegeorge]

to argue the case with the roofer - if it comes to that. I'd be grateful for any of the usual sage-like advice of this group :-)

year later that some of the flashing has slipped. Here are some photos of the result:

enough, or not mixed right, and/or the lead not pushed deep enough into the chimney brickwork. Can you tell from the photos what the likely cause is?

flashing to stay put for many years yet.

written up, and the rest of the flashing inspected. No-one taking short-cuts like that is going to own up to it without a fight. I paid for a job to be done, and it looks like it wasn't done.

wouldnt that be throwing good money after bad? The chap wasnt a roofer. Damp getting in could do loads of damage to the wood etc underneath, i'd get in a proper roofer or do it myself.

There are videos on youtube.

there's tubes of stuff on sale at my local rooopfers which can be used instead of mortar.

But new lead may need to be cut with bigger flaps.

[george]

[Jason Judge]

enough to argue the case with the roofer - if it comes to that. I'd be = grateful for any of the usual sage-like advice of this group :-)

ticed a year later that some of the flashing has slipped. Here are some pho= tos of the result:

k enough, or not mixed right, and/or the lead not pushed deep enough into t= he chimney brickwork. Can you tell from the photos what the likely cause is= ?

ng this flashing to stay put for many years yet.

ort written up, and the rest of the flashing inspected. No-one taking short=

-cuts like that is going to own up to it without a fight. I paid for a job = to be done, and it looks like it wasn't done.

The roofer is due to come around some point this week to take a look. I am = now armed with knowledge on how this should be done, so can push for a prop= er job. Whether he does it, or someone else does it, I have already paid an= d do not intend to throw any more money at it.

I did my own lead flashing on a sloping offshoot nearly twenty years ago, a= nd that is still holding out well. It took me ages, and could probably do a= much better and quicker job now, but if I can do it, then a professional h= as no excuse. That was a low roof, and not thirty foot up an end-terrace, s= o I had more of a choice on whether to do it myself that time.

Thanks again, everyone, for your help.

-- Jason

[Martin Bonner]

+1

Couldn't have used his thumb - that would have given a decent finish. My guess is that he had his three-year old up the scaffold with him.

[sm_jamieson]

I always do an inch. The 40mm mentioned seems rather excessive to me - you don't want to reduce the bond strength too much on a chimney with a limited amount of weight above and exposed to the wind. Simon.