Chemical sink + drain unblockers - any good?

My washing m/c, which is connected for drainage at the kitchen sink has just *almost* flooded the kitchen by means of overfilling the sink when draining. Now I'm no expert, but that tells me there's a blockage between the sink and the main drain.

I've tried a traditional plunger on the kitchen sink, and a syringe type plunger but both merely blow crap out of the overflow (straight down my shirt, lovely). I can't think of a way to block the overflow to increase the pressure so I'm looking for alternatives.

I've come across the Mr Muscle range of two products, details here:

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is this kind of product any good? Are there alternative approaches I could use? TIA.

Reply to
Abso
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I used the active foamer recently on the sink in the bathroom, and it worked very well.

Reply to
ajg_xch

Thanks. Does it provide for more than one application, or is the idea that you bung it all down there at once?

I'm not sure whether the active foamer or the sink + plughole unblocker is the best option. Mr Muscle says that you only use the s+p unblocker when there is a total blockage but in my case the sink takes 10 mins to drain from full. I'm not sure if that qualifies as merely slow draining or a total block. The former I suppose.

Reply to
Abso

Chemicals sometimes work, but it's often a lot quicker to dismantle the traps and wastepipes (unless they're solvent welded) and clean them out properly. It's a messy job, but should last a while once done.

Reply to
Set Square

"Abso" wrote | My washing m/c, which is connected for drainage at the kitchen | sink has just *almost* flooded the kitchen by means of | overfilling the sink when draining. Now I'm no expert, but | that tells me there's a blockage between the sink and the | main drain. | I've tried a traditional plunger on the kitchen sink, and a | syringe type plunger but both merely blow crap out of the | overflow (straight down my shirt, lovely). I can't think | of a way to block the overflow to increase the pressure

Someone else holding a wet rag firmly over the overflow hole whilst you attend to the plug hole.

| so I'm looking for alternatives. | I've come across the Mr Muscle range of two products, details here: |

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| .. is this kind of product any good? Are there alternative approaches | I could use? TIA.

They are effective if the blockage is in the sink trap. They are not as much use if the blockage is further down.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

These 'Mr Muscle' products are probably all based on sodium carbonate and sodium hydroxide, which are available at a tenth of the price which they charge. Are you sure the slow draining isn't caused by a blockage in the outside drains? Is you toilet water level low- this is often a clue. Have a look in the manholes outside. On three occasions, I've had similar problems and the problem was in the outside drains - a blockage in next door's manhole, which was communal to 7 properties, and probably due to disposable nappies - the smell was horrendous. The solution was achieved by using drain rods and later a pressure washer with a back-flush attachment. If this is your problem, Mr Muscle is a waste of time. The local council used to do this job free of charge but sadly no longer.

Terry D.

Reply to
Terry D

With many types of overflow design, the traditional way to block them up, whilst using a plunger over the plug hole, is to ram a damp cloth into the overflow - often works remarkably well.

Reply to
Cycle

Sadly I don't think that will work as this is a stainless steel sink with simple slots cut into the rear - 4 slots of approx 5mm wide by

30mm long.
Reply to
Abso

I'll have a look at doing this. I'm sure I can get the sink trap off but I suspect the block is in the drain pipe leading away from the sink and I can only get to one end of this.

Reply to
Abso

I think it's local to the kitchen sink. The toilet, bathroom sink and bath are all draining ok.

Reply to
Abso

Or for a loner like me perhaps a wet rag held over the overflow with one foot whilst the other stands on the floor and I plunger the sink for all it's worth. I'll either discover muscles I never knew I had, or get acquainted with A&E at the local hospital.

I think it's further down.

Reply to
Abso

Hi,

Why is it difficult to block the overflow, would another plunger/coke bottle end do it?

I've had good results unblocking a kitchen sink pipe by drilling a

1/16" hole in the pipe in a suitable place, threading in some wire with a spiral end to clear the blockage, then taping over the hole with aluminium tape.

I've also unblocked a shower drain with a steamer, but it needs some care.

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

Go to Plumbase and ask for the strong "One Shot" drain cleaner... officially only sold to the "trade" (whatever that is) and comes with all sorts of dire H&S warnings. Basically its 80%+ H2SO4 and will shift most things; inc presumably cast iron drains :-)

Reply to
BillV

"Abso" wrote | I think it's further down.

A Wire Snaky Thing (tm) from a plumber's merchant may be what you need.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

It's caused by washing machines these days going all green and using lower water temperatures and less water. The result is a build up on the drain pipes of a grey sticky goo made up of discarded skin and, if you have children, you don't want to know what else.

It's quite easily shifted by Caustic Soda or any of the proprietary cleaners and they are far easier to use than dismantling the whole thing. It will recur about every 6 to 18 months if you don't remember to pour about a pint of caustic soda solution down the Washing machine drain pipe every now and again.

Reply to
Peter Parry

Yes dismantling and cleaning is the 100% effectice route and the cheapest .Other routes are netcurtain wire type devices problem with these is that hard to clear the whole diameter of the pipe. for blocking up the overflow when plunging try gaffa/duct tape then hold a folded up cloth over the overflow again the problem is clearing the whole bore of the pipe

If you dismantle check the ends of the pipes for swarf from when they were cut as these can be the start of a build up ,its easy when the pipes are dismantled to run a sharp knife round to remove the swarf. Also remember up you are going to dismantle to empty the sink as much as you can before removing the trap also have a bucket/washing up bowl under the trap be prepared for a stink tho :-)

If you have a bottle trap consider replacing with a p trap, bottle traps are just a plain pain in the butt for blockages

Steve

Reply to
steve

snip

Often all thats neeed is some caustic soda. I put a cupful in the sink, over the plug hole, and poured some boiling water on it. Its very effective, but !beware! It spits alkali, and the spit drops can do your eyes a serious and nasty injury. I did it facing the other way, and did _not_ turn to look. Never do this, ever. It didnt occur to me till later that one moment of forgetful turn around...

Regards, NT

Reply to
N. Thornton

With respect that is a really silly idea - when caustic soda dissolves the reaction is strongly exothermic - it generates a lot of heat. Pouring near boiling water on it is not sensible as you get an immediate boiling mass of concentrated caustic soda.

Indeed - but it is equally effective if made up following the destructions on the container and a damn sight safer.

There is no can about it - boiling concentrated caustic soda will blind you very quickly. Alkali burns from caustic soda are _always_ worse than they look and should always be treated as emergencies and the victim taken to hospital after rapid first aid of complete irrigation of the eye with copious amounts of water.

Reply to
Peter Parry

Chepaaer is to get some caustic soda - not washing soda - and dribble it down the plughole.

Then pour a kettle of hot water down.

And stand clear of the corrosive fuming boiling mess that results.

A few doses of this usually does teh trick.

I will not get flamed by people telling you how dangerous this is. Which it is. Don't let it spalsh in your eyes, and wear old clothing.

Wash any splashes off with cold water ASDAP as it does sting a little, and can leave a bit of a moinor burn if you leave it. Its very bad for eyes tho.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Eyes yes, but skin burns are nothing. I have had dozens of minor caustic spalshes and never once went to hospital.

For eyes, its a question of massive and immediate dilution. Time is of the essence. Don't rush to A & E, get the eye washed with clean cold water again and again and THEN get to A & E. But they won't do anything much more than wash it again. If its damaged, its damaged, and the only treatment is something to stop it hurting ad keep infection at bay, and hope it heals itself.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

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