The boss in local battery centre says it's ok to connect neg charger lead to neg terminal on battery.
However, car's user manual suggests connecting to somewhere on the chassis. This can be a pain, getting a good connection. Any thoughts TIA.
I've always done the former, except where the battery is inaccessible, then the latter. IMNHO, it makes little or no difference.
assuming it is a normal car then connecting direct to the battery will be ok. the only good reason to make a remote connection is if you make the remote connection last to connect and first to disconnect, this way any possible spark as you connect/disconnect will be remote from the battery which may have given off some flammable fumes.
Modern chargers do not usually make any sparks upon connection in any case. It is still good practise to turn off the charger before disconnecting.
With mine the battery is in the boot under the spare tyre, so for jump starting they provide a +ve terminal behind a flap under the bonnet, there is also an arrow pointing at a nearby bolt in the chassis for the -ve.
Audi? My RS3 was like that.
Yes, and re: the lidaldi jump pack thread, it's rated 100Ah 900CCA.
I don't see the reason for using the chassis unless testing the earth, but you don't need a charger for that!
I actually built a charger many moons back and believe me its better on the battery. Brian
I persume the idea is to reduce current if anything shorts, thus avoiding fire.
NT
Chassis or terminal .. makes no diff as long as car is -ve earth
I like to keep my boat batteries on trickle charge .. I made up a lead to connect via 'cigarette socket' ... works fine
Don't think earthing polarity has anything to do with. If you make a spark near a charging battery you risk igniting the hydrogen. Considerably less risk with "sealed" batteries admittedly.
Tim
Thanks all, good news indeed, consensus is that battery dealer is correct and is ok to connect direct to -ve terminal. Perhaps Toyota are covering their asses.
I use one of those Aldi/Lidl chargers mentioned by this group last year. It goes into 'maintenance cycle' after initial boost.
It's also used on my 85ah battery, which powers one of those Bison electric outboard motors and lasts about 45 mins. I was surprised to find that the Yaris battery is a mere 45ah.
I built one in to the old Rover. In the spare wheel well. With a waterproof mains plug under the bumper. Only slight snag is you have to press the button on it to set it to charge after powering up.
With a battery charger? Don't think even the very cheapest I've ever seen was devoid of some form of protection against shorts.
OT but one of the main differences beween the Lidl and Aldi models were the displays (LCD vs LED)
I assume my Aldi XS model is LED, yes? :-
Lidl Ultimate
no that is a liquid crystal display. LED shines.
Ah thanks for that MC. So the 'backlit' lidl Ultimate is LED.
No, that is just an LCD with a backlight, the backlight is very likely an LED.
That of course offers no protection against the leads wearing through and shorting.
NT
my old style battery charger has an overload thermal manual reset switch, modern ones just shut down electronically (if the leads short together)
I dread to think what the 600 amp Crypton jump start charger could do, but the average DIYer does not have one.
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