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Changing type of dual flush valve in toilet cistern

If you like - though Toolstation are cheaper for the same thing.

Reply to
Roger Mills
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Have a look at this (silent) video - it should provide a few clues.

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Your fill valve may be different and you probably won't have indents in the bottom of the cistern for the bolt-heads - the plate will be slightly cranked instead. But the idea's the same.

Yes, I think the fixing hole positions are pretty standard.

Just an afterthought . . . there are some cisterns which have bolt-holes through the bottom, rather than using a sandwich plate. In the unlikely event of yours being like that, you'll see the bold-heads in the bottom of the cistern. either side of the flush valve.

Reply to
Roger Mills

Screwfix in Spalding is just down the road from me, but Toolstation is a 40-minute drive away in King's Lynn.

MM

Reply to
MM

No, no bolt heads visible inside cistern.

That video is darned useful! The moment it got to the point where the bracket was placed over the valve I understood everything!

MM

Reply to
MM

And remember to grease the new threads so that in 20 years you will be able to remove them easily.

Reply to
DerbyBorn

Getting a good seal between the cistern and the pan was the problem I had when I changed a syphon. I found I could buy replacement doughnuts on ebay, I should have bought several as it is hard to judge the best size. I eventually cut one in half horizontally and then used bathroom sealant to get a water tight joint.

Reply to
Michael Chare

Yes, it can be a problem. I've recently replaced the flush valves in both of my toilets. In both cases, I used a standard Screwfix or Toolstation doughnut. The first was fine, and didn't leak. The second had been fitted with a doughnut whose outer diameter was somewhat larger. At first, with a new doughnut - smaller than the original - that one leaked when flushed. But I took it apart again and re-assembled it with some bathroom sealant, and it was then fine.

Reply to
Roger Mills

Oh dear, I've bought one now. From Screwfix. I thought they were standard for most close-coupled toilets.

MM

Reply to
MM

Screwfix this afternoon had only the one sort, which I bought. I haven't cut the plastic bag open, so if it doesn't look like it will fit, I'll take it back. Dunno where else to get a different one, though. Plumb Center, I suppose.

When I asked one of the staff at Screwfix he said it's the only one they sell because it's what they get asked for the most. It sure is a fat bugger:

Outer diameter (top) 101mm Hole diameter 62mm Thickness 22mm

SIzes approximate, as I'm measuring through the sealed plastic bag.

MM

Reply to
MM

Curiously, I haven't been able to get Plus Gas anywhere yet! Not even sure whether it's still available. I asked in the spares section at Halfords and the bloke gave me a blank look. Said he'd never heard of it. They didn't have it at Screwfix, either. Neither in my local hardware store, which does do a huge range of stuff. Plenty of WD40 everywhere, but no Plus Gas. Maybe an Amazon order is needed.

MM

Reply to
MM

yes, a quick google shows Amazon sell it.

Reply to
charles

I'm sure that will be fine!

One thing I forgot to mention . . . The new valve has two little sliders to control how much water is released when you press the button - one for half flush and one for full flush. I found that in order to get decent flushes, they both needed to be set to the maximum settings. Unless you do that, the half flush in particular won't get rid of any toilet paper that may be in the pan. [YMMV but SWMBO uses paper even for a Number 1].

Reply to
Roger Mills

I believe it's easy to "unscrew" the top part of the valve from the base in situ, in order to get to those sliders? Alternatively, maybe the sliders can be adjusted in situ?

Thanks again. (Reason why this is taking so long is I had my big toenails removed two weeks ago and they're still painful when I kneel down as the toes are flexed in the process.)

MM

Reply to
MM

It's a sort of bayonet fixing - I think you turn it clockwise to release, BICBW. It's much easier to get at the sliders when the valve is in your hand rather than installed.

You'll need to turn the water off - or tie the ball valve up - before removing the valve - otherwise water will just continuously pour into the pan.

Reply to
Roger Mills

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