Changing CH type from FAQ Type B to D...

Hello everyone,

We've recently moved house and are about to embark on installing a new kitchen, as part of the upheaval I thought I'd change the heating system over to a FAQ type D "Full control by 3 port valve" and move all the wiring from the kitchen next to the boiler (a Glow-Worm Fuel Saver II which the mate-of-a-mate-of-a-mate plumber tells me will be OK for the time being) up to the airing cupboard.

The current controller is a Honeywell ST99 I think, but I can't get the thing off the wall to check. The manual I've downloaded off the 'net shows there to be a grub screw or similar at the top right, it simply isn't there, any clues before I just rip it off and have to buy a new one?

On to the plumbing type questions:

Here's a link to my airing cupboard :)

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assume that I would remove the valve that's there at the moment and install a 3 port in place of the T just below the pump? Is that correct?

To the left of the pump, what's that pipe do sticking up out of the return on the heating circuit?

Then over to the cylinder, I assume that pipe sticking up from the input to the cylinder is some kind of air-letting-out-device? Does it require me to fiddle with it?

This cylinder says it is a double feed coil - does that matter? As far as I can see it has hot water out at the top, heating in on the right, at the bottom I assume is cold water in, and the on the left (out of sight in the photo) is another connection which I assume is return. No sign of another "feed".

Before I start on this lot I also need to move a radiator a bit to the left, so I'm going to drain down the system and do all this at the same time, which strikes me as the ideal time to give the whole thing a bit of a clean. Will adding some Sentinel X400 sludge removed to the header tank and running it through, draining it out, filling it up, running clean through, draining it out, doing the work, and finally filling it back up again with some inhibitor be the correct course of action? Should I drain some water out to ensure the stuff in the header tank gets taken in to the circuit?

Would now be the time to replace the pump as well?

I'll also be installing a cylinder stat, along side the already installed room stat, and I've pretty much got my head around the wiring, but what do people think of the Honeywell Smartfit solution?

So many questions, I appreciate your help.

Regards, Will

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Will
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