The motor on my AEG OKO Lavamat 605 washing machine has stopped running. I suspect it is the brushes. It seems I have to take out the motor to get at them, which seems quite complicated to me. Also I don't have new brushes to put in.
I'm wondering if it is likely that the present brushes will work if pushed in? Or is there any temporary way of getting brushes to work for a while?
I managed to replace them on my fairly ancient 6200 without removing the motor. They were, however, a fairly eye-watering £20 or so.
Sometimes, did things like that years ago. But why do more work for a lttle extra life when you can do less work and have long lasting new brushes.
The only way you'll know if that can be done is to get to it and see.
NT
Running a machine with worn brushes is asking for further damage IMO. Taking a motor out isn't at all difficult, nor does it require any special tools - socket set or spanners. Changed them it Hotpoints many times, easy job.
Hotpoint brushes are soft and need changing /very/ frequently. AEG brushes are expensive but last longer, at the expense of more commutator wear.
It pays to change the brushes promptly, as less damage is done to the commutator, false economy to bodge old brushes. Do as TMH says.
My hotpoint brushes can be changed from the front without removing the motor. I must have done it about 20 times on my ancient Hotpoint, which has now outlived it's AEG lavamat replacement. Couldn't get teh spares for the latter, but the hotpoint still goes on strongly (about 25yr old) as spares are still available.
I've kept a Hotpoint going for 20 years with brush changes. Had to take the motor out though - maybe different models. Only changed it cos SWMBO wanted a 'new' machine.
Front panel at the top comes off on mine, complete with knobs/switches. Brush end of motor top right. Its a bit fiddly releasing the clips on the brushes but it is possible without removing the motor.
If it's like a 50630 (I think), =A320.72 each from Partmaster. The motor (FHP) on ours has a sticket underneath. Remove the 4 screws on the mounts, disconnect the look and knock it forward towards the front of the machine. Catch it before it hits the deck!
Thanks for your response. But I don't understand it completely. What exactly is a "sticket"? My motor is very near the floor of the machine, and I can't see anything underneath it.
Also what do you mean by "disconnect the look"? As far as I can see, there are two bolts holding the motor on my machine. I just tried turning these with my adjustable spanner, but I haven't succeeded yet.
I suspect I shall have to pay the exorbitant call-out fee to get an expert in.
Hotpoint brushes lasted about 18 years in mine. Makes me wonder if you are fitting the right ones for the motor - they do both hard and soft, one is in a black sleeve and the other is white (but I can't remember which is which).
First time, I removed the motor. Second time, I did it inplace (but the brushes weren't worn out - it turned out to be a broken wire in the wiring harness, and that in turn blew the drive triac).
Mine's 22 years old, but the outer drum is damaged (my own fault) which means it's on it's last legs. Replacement outer drum is available, but in a 22 year old machine, I think that's a step too far. Some parts are no longer available if they fail (e.g. the motor).
I fit the black ones, I gather they are the softer ones and correct for the motor. The drive end bearings are slightly worn (they can't be replaced due to welded on pulley) but the brush end has been replaced, and brush life has improved. The machine has been heavily used over the years, 4 children through washable nappies and lots of towels with daily swimming.
I changed the drum bearings and belt last year, easily available but the supplier had problems with his supplier sending the wrong belts. Last time I looked the motor (armature) was still available, but that was a couple of years ago. It did have a motor replacement under warranty which unfortunately had the welded on pulley, which the original didn't.
It is an electronic one thus the controller hasn't worn out, but if it fails (or the controller board) it's probably stuffed.
It was a third of the cost of the AEG, but much better lasting.
Sorry, I typed my reply in a rush - I meant sticker. What you find on that can mean a lot to the supplier of replacement parts like brushes.
I used a little mirror, LED headtorch and took a digital photo. Flipped it around to read the text the right way. But you will be able to read all identifying text once you remove the motor.
Sorry, loom, wiring connector.
Mine has 8mm (I think) hex headed screws into plastic. A normal socket with extension pieces does the trick. There are 2 of those screws at the rear of the motor where its bracket meets the outer drum, then 2 more screws in exactly the same positions at the far end of the motor (nearest the front of the machine). All the screwheads are visible from the rear. Once the screws are removed, tap the rear brackets forward with a hammer and piece of wood, and the motor will drop off.
No need. Save your cash. ~=A340 for new parts and about 10 minutes maximum with a screwdriver and a little fiddling with the spade terminals. You can also take the motor outside and blast out the carbon dust from the coils with compressed air. Don't breathe it in though. See where your old brushes ended up!
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