I've borrowed a petrol chainsaw and offered to replace the cutting chain as part of the deal. It is not one of the main brands. Not done this before so is it just a matter of getting a replacement chain the same length or is there something else I need to look out for?
mark
There are a number of parameters so get a chain that is specified for the model of saw you are using. There are a number of suppliers on ebay who have application info on their sites. if you can't find the make, then as well as length and number of links, do check the width of the slot that the chain runs in is the same otherwise the new chain might jam or be too slack.
Be aware that a chain usually needs sharpening regularly in use. if the saw is not producing small curly shavings but produces dust instead, the the chain needs a quick touch with a the correct diameter round file. The owner of the saw should have one and be able to show you how to use it.
Be safe!
Bob
In message , mark writes
Find a local lawnmower repair shop and ask if they handle chain saws as well.
I can recommend Taylors Tools at Kings Langley, Herts. Normally they count the teeth, draw the correct length off a roll and rivet the two ends together. About 5 mins once they have finished re-counting:-)
Worth checking the bar while you have the thing in bits. The work edge may have significant *burrs* either side of the slot which should be carefully flat filed off. Most chain saw bars are reversible.
regards
It's normally the drive link count, the bit that sits in the slot.
You need to know the pitch of the chain, distance between two rivets, .325 and 3/8 are most common, .404 on big saws and I cannot remember the little size for smaller saws.
Also note the width of the slot in the bar varies.
All these sizes are noramlly marked on the bar, often near the chain adjuster.
AJH
And the drive link is normally stamped with part/size details.
regards
This is all very unwise IMO. I would never lend my chain saw because of the real hazard to any user of the blade failing and causing serious personal damage. Likewise if you now fit a new blade and something goes wrong, you would be responsible for any injury.
If the deal is to fit an new blade, then get it done professionally - clearly the lender for instance has not even offered you the handbook, which would at least mitigate some of your responsibility.
Rob
*IF* the injured party decided to take action, and *IF* there were a case to be made, and *IF* he could find a solicitor willing to take it on, and *IF* the judge ultimately found in the plaintiff's favour......
(Stating the obvious) there's too much of this about. I was prevented from cutting an 8x4 sheet of Celotex in two the other day at Wickes (even though I was in their capacious lobby area, out of the rain) because "it's not allowed because of health and safety". It all comes back to all the "IF"s cited above, and some amateur lawyer in the company concerned deciding to sweep aside all the IFs, and just saying "No".
To be fair, given the Sargasso Sea of current H&S legislation, I can't say I really blame large companies for doing this (given there's no shortage of gutter-level 'no-blame, no-claim' solicitors). But in a domestic case like the one we're talking about, I think there is probably much less chance of making a claim.
I'd agree with that though. Chainsaws, like any savage beast, are fearsome when used and maintained by untrained amateurs (like me).
John
Regardless of your "IFs", I would have a certain amount of difficulty living with myself if my friend suffered because of a fault in a machine I lent him, and equally if my friend fitted the blade and it failed when I was using it I would like to think he would be equally mortified.
Rob
I cannot see the connection between my comments about specifying a chain loop and lending out a saw.
Even then you have a rosy view of how saws are maintained in a small company with a number of employees drawing saws occasionally, though it is often the case an employee using a saw regularly will keep one as personal issue. Even then it would be expected he would allow other (competent) members of the gang to use it.
AJH
Yes - I do agree with you there Rob.
I have a 2-stroke saw (which scares the shit out of me), which I've never lent, partly because of the danger element, and partly because even a good friend could unwittingly damage it, and then I'd be in an awkward position if they didn't offer unilaterally to pay.
I also have a Bosch electric (one of the best tools I've ever bought), which I _have_ lent to a particular friend: this saw is much less threatening, much easier to handle, and - by god - it don't half save you a lot of bow-sawing! :-)
John
I managed a very nasty gash on my leg, once, with a chainsaw - and it wasn't even running at the time. The trouble with stopping to sharpen the damned thing is that when you've finished - it's sharp.
I wore out a Bosch chainsaw (no complaints, it chopped down a lot of trees) and now have a Makita which is very nice.
I wonder how many people really need petrol chainsaws, as you say electric ones are somewhat safer (less rotating mass so less chance of kickback, etc.). We have a smallholding with 9 acres of land and I have used the electric chainsaw almost all over it. I've used it to fell quite large trees (50ft high, 18" diameter Leylandii).
It's a Performance Pro...B&Q which is hard enough to source blades for anyway. Seems to have more cons than pros this replacing blade malarky. Think I'll just have it sharpened at a mower place.Thanks for all the advice
mark
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A situation I bitterly recognise: I lent something to a friend that broke when he used it (it was old, so he was unlucky).
I was ready to dismiss his offer to pay for it, but he never did offer, which to this day still rankles. I did expect that he would offer, as I would, had roles been reversed.
Actually, I would already have bought the replacement.
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