After only a few years I have seen tanks with proper lids and by-law kits fitted with crud and insects in the water. Takes your choice. Just don't give the water to visitors and children.
After only a few years I have seen tanks with proper lids and by-law kits fitted with crud and insects in the water. Takes your choice. Just don't give the water to visitors and children.
Neither of which actually give you hot water unless you've just been running it for something else. Otherwise all you do is draw off a slug of previously heated but now cold water from the pipe to be replaced by hot water which will then go cold in the pipe.
MBQ
Where can I find your mug shot?
Absolutely, But then dribble has a one bedroom ex-council flat on some depressing estate so can only fantasise about a decent shower.
Of course not. I doubt there are open tanks left anywhere apart from in dribble's imagination.
No I don't. But knowing your pipework, *you* probably do.
I don't pay for the water I use. If you were stupid enough to have a meter fitted that's your lookout.
You don't get out much, do you? Thought you claimed to be some form of 'heating engineer'
'People' want to get clean. And this needs water, not 'pressure'. Fool.
Then they're fools, like you.
[snip more dribbling]
But wastes water through *your* meter.
...fairies are at the bottom of the garden.
** snip senile drivel **** snip far too much drivel and senility **
** snip didtorted senility **
A shame really, he needs better care that what he is getting.
A HEADER TANK IS FOR THE HEATING CIRCUIT (THE WEE TANK) A STORAGE TANK IS FOR THE DOMESTIC CIRCUIT (THE BIG TANK)
unless you have a primatic tank that its...
dr drivel ,,,,,,,,you did not know that??? anyway the warm ai question has still to be answered
do you finally admit that wet ch systems beat warm air hands dow
-- gastec
If you have a conventional system with header tank and intend t perform short duration work moving your rad it is possible to perfor the task live using BUNGS,,They cost £15 at the plumbing store and hav instructions in the pack...
at a wee bit more expence you could buy a freeze kit at again do th job live.
a full drain down could result in air locks
if in doubt get a nice quote from BGA
-- gastec
The brain of corgi speaks..
You don't say. Wow!!
Gosh!!!
** snip silly stuff **
Having had SWMBO complaining about the slow warm up of the wet system this morning with the freezing foggy conditions, I remember the warm air system was much quicker to respond, and it was a smaller capacity too.
But only if you've got more money than sense!
That's easily addressed by having a thermostat with learning capability which will start the heating a little earlier if it's very cold.
If you are in and out many times a day, you can use warm air like a big heater and just switch it off as you go out, and on when you get in. It warms up within a few minutes.
Warm air in high thermal mass house works brilliantly. The mass gives out stored heat when out and a zippo warm up when you get in. A rather even temperature.
Andy, do you happen to know what the earliest start time is for a CM67? I had a feeling that it would start up to 2 hours before the target time - but when answering a call of nature early this morning, I found that the radiators were hot two and a half hours before the target time - so it must have started even earlier. Is this normal?
A sudden cold spot can throw them out, but they learn the house and adjust to suit quickly. .
This is exactly what I experienced which is why I turned optimisation off.
On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 16:15:44 -0000 someone who may be "Doctor Drivel" wrote this:-
And I have not.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.