I have 2 shortish 15mm c/h feeds to the garage from boiler area, but they will be running under 45mm cellotex under UFH. Is there a cost effective method/device suitable for dry pressure testing each run prior to C/H conection so I can get on and get the UFH laid without concerns over leaks when finally connected?
TIA PEte
Pressure it up with a hand/foot/electric tyre pump (and appropriate valves & gauge).
How about:
Assuming copper tube, practise making some capillary solder joints. Done properly, these never, ever, leak.
I disagree.
I have re-plumbed several entire C/H systems and done 10's of 100's of capilliary joints in copper stuff, yet am still suprised at the joints that look bang on perfect that "WEEP" whereas dodgy "over-heated" joints (water in pipe etc) that I felt would almost certainly leak have been fine.
So, as connecting F+R pipes to current C/H are 2nd on the list to getting a workable floor down (so Kitchen can be fitted and house re-inhabited) which obscures CH joints i.e. the run in question goes under UFH insulation and no heating planned on connection for a fair while, I would rather test joints before going live as once UFH is TS (Thin Screed(ed)) I'm up the proverbial creek... then again, I have indeed used a "leak remedy" additive to sort out those PITA joints, as indeed that sicky icky Fernox "stuff in a tube" which has got me out of
1 impossible situation.Also.... having dismantled some "profesionally made" copper joints, it's quite scary to see how little amount of pipe/fitting is actually water tight. i.e. oxidation hidden within joint making for large areas of "non-contact" between pipe and fiting.
Appologies for waffling, it's the demolition of 1 bottle of fine red wine to myself that has perked up the babble centre of my frontal lobe.
:¬)
Cheers. Pete (on the kitchen P.C.)
I suppose I could claim about the same sort of numbers. And the only leak I've ever had in a capillary fitting - and I use end feed, not Yorkshire - was caused by a pin hole in it. Although for straight coupling I have a pipe swager which I'd use in later to be inaccessible places
I did say well made joints, and this takes practice. And included in that practice should be dismantling them to make sure all surfaces were properly tinned. If they aren't, it means dirt, not properly fluxed, not enough heat or not enough solder.
S'ok. The thing I'd be worried about is compression fittings can test out ok, but start leaking at a later date.
But its so easy to NOT do properly.
The way I test em is thumb over the end and suck. If te presure don't hold, redo em.
The UFH MUST be pressure tested wet.
Befoire you screed, and hold teh pressure WHILE you screed.
As is a compression fitting. Or even, in IMM's case, a push fit one.
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