Local Council ad in the paper for energy efficiency, so I'm wondering about cavity wall insulation, will it leave the outside of the house peppered with dots !!, what size hole for injection and at what intervals? And are the savings worth it? Cheers,
It depends rather on the wall finish and the care and skill of the contractor.
The flats opposite me have a rendered finish and the infill dots are noticeable, but not terribly intrusive.
In a brick wall with regular mortar lines and a variation in brick colour making matching the colour more difficult, the holes would be much more noticeable.
Probably still worth doing though, for economy and comfort, and the added value of the insulation to the house price would more than offset the slight detraction in exterior appearance (unless, of course, the house is particularly delightful to start with).
I think I'd have the contractor start at the back until I saw how well he was filling the holes.
Usually 12mm diameter holes, roughly at one metre intervals vertically and horizontally, usually through the mortar between bricks, unless rendered in which case they just drill through. Typical heat loss is 30% through uninsulated cavity walls, so your house will immediately feel warmer. Also, in older houses with suspended wooden floors, under-floor draughts and draughts through upstairs floors are often reduced.
snipped-for-privacy@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...> Local Council ad in the paper for ene= rgy efficiency, so I'm wondering
We got quoted =A3494 yesterday for a 3 bed detached with single storey extension. Last February a 3 bed without extension cost =A3160. Both from the same company.
When we had ours done I asked them to fill the holes with a matching 'mortar' (the original was red, we pointed with mastic sand when we moved in). They said that they couldn't so they knocked quite a sum off the bill so that we could do it ourselves. We never got round to it and the other week I was looking for the holes - which they filled with ordinary mortar. It took a long time to find them - to my surprise.
Oh absolutely, I couldn't agree more. the visual impact is very small and could be resolved if it were thought necessary.
Thats where It'd be tricky, its a double fronted house. It's dashed in white and black stone, the extension has been done in the same and the match is so so. I'm afraid of having it look like a Dalmation !!! :-)
i used to do this for a living (about 20 years ago) and we used t pride ourselves on trying to leave no trace of any drilling. it' probably almost impossible to completely disguise the holes but an decent company should be trying to be better at it than thei competitor's. we used to use various coloured powders/dyes to mix with the cement o in your case from what i can remember i would mix white paint with th cement and pick the stones up that were knocked out by the drilling an stick them in the wet cement. hope this is of some help, pitbul
I've decided to get it done, as the asthetics come second to keeping the house warm cheaper, but thanks for the pointers on minimising the visual impact :-)
When we did houses with a whiteish render, we pointed the holes up[1] with tyrolean which dries almost brilliant white, occasionally we would do a yellow, blue, pink or whatever colour and I never did one that I had to touch up th holes afterwards with paint, we also carried 6 or 7 colours of mortar dye, red, buff(yellow) black, brown, green and blue...with these we could make a mix suitable for any house.
We wore 'marigold' type rubber gloves and pointed each hole up with a 'sausage' of mortar pushed deep into the hole and smoothed with the fingers, some firms (not naming names here) would use a trowel but the problem with this was that they only got a quarter inch of mortar over the end, after a year or two it had washed away. The repointing is done as each hole is finished.
On 26 Oct 2006 09:22:58 -0700 someone who may be "Staffbull" wrote this:-
Get the loft done as well, if it isn't already. Cavity wall and loft insulation will ISTR reduce heat losses by something like 60%. They should also do draught proofing. Also insulate heating pipes, hot water pipes and a badly lagged hot water cylinder.
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