Cavity ventilation

[Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)]

As part of my refurb work in the (*******) I have moved a tumble dryer vent to another location. This gives me a number of choices for the old hole.

1) Brick it up and forget it.

2) Fit an air brick externally and a grille internally. For the gas hob ventilation donch ya know? Maybe draughty.

3) Fit a grille internally and brick up the outside.

Now option 3 suggests itself because there is an air brick on the outside below floor level. This would give draught free ventililation, provided that it's sensible, and so here's the question...

Is the cavity DPC perforated above the airbrick? If not should I do that?

[Hugo Nebula]

On Tue, 21 Jun 2005 15:05:59 +0100, a particular chimpanzee named "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)" randomly hit the keyboard and produced:

Where?

Acceptable.

Make sure it's sleeved all the way through. You don't want to ventilate the cavity which will only introduce cold air in. Fit a closable grille on the inside.

Not acceptable, for similar reasons to 2.

Hopefully your sub-floor ventilation is sleeved, although in older houses it wasn't. I wouldn't be worried about the DPC. Generally, there is a separate DPC in each leaf (unless your house is built in a high radon area or close to a landfill).

[Andrew Gabriel]

If it's really required by a gas appliance, I'm pretty sure it's not permitted to be closeable.

[Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)]

The place where all notifiable works WERE completed by the end of March this year. :-)

That was the primary idea, but it meant finding a matching brick.

It didn't occur to me that the cavity shouldn't be ventilated.

The house was built in 1970. I think the best idea is just to brick it up. If I have to sleeve it etc, I might just as well fit another tumble dryer vent kit with an internal grille. It isn't actually an issue with Mr Corgi, but I thought as it's there, use it.

Thanks for your advice.