Cast iron drain pipe disaster

[7]

I got a cast iron drain pipe 3" diameter thats taking sink water and it appears out of the wall with a 90 degree bend and goes straight down about 3 meters and into concrete.

Someone opened the 90 degree bend cover and tried to unblock a blockage further down. But they seem to have used what looks like a 15mm copper pipe and left it stuck inside!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

An inspection camera locates it about 1 meter below the access hole.

doh!!

How does one get this out?

Its cost 150 quid so far for someone to come clear it from what I thought was a normal blockage only to be told about this major blunder and that the job can't be done until its taken out.

[Andrew Gabriel]

If the end of the 15mm copper isn't jammed against the side of the cast iron, could you fit a push-fit 15mm coupler to another length, lower it onto the piece in there and push the coupler on, and then pull the two out?

Probably need the camera in there too, to get the two lined up, and/or some other type of guide to align them.

[7]

That is a brilliant idea - though I fear that pipe is not lined up straight to allow the coupler to just slide in without a struggle. I ordered a 7M USB endoscopic camera from Ebay for about 30 quid - it needs another look to see if it can work out.

I thought about taking a long wood and use a band saw to cut a long taper and push it into the pipe opening and jam it and then drag both pieces out.

[Brian Gaff]

What is needed is some kind of device that can be expanded inside the jammed pipe. I'm sure such a device exists, but the question is what would you ask for? Brian

[Tim+]

Alternatively, angle grinder! Cut a new access hole at the level of (or even a bit below) the 15mm pipe end and use this access point to manipulate the stuck section back out through the elbow. I think you can get a sticky-backed lead patch to repair your new hole.

Tim

[Tim Lamb]

In message , Brian Gaff writes

Something like a Rawlbolt?

I made one for shotgun barrel dent removal but suspect that the OP will not have the equipment or skills.

[Peter Parry]

Get a basin wrench such as

fabricate a suitable long handle. Hold the swivel head at 90deg with some tape and turn it onto the pipe. The grip will help rotate the pipe and pulling upward at the same time should free it.

[7]

I got big rawbolts - probably need smaller ones, but now idea how it could be operated 1 meter below the access hole.

[Bill]

Can you see the open end of the copper pipe? Is the pipe jammed in position?

If the answer to both is yes, then how about finding a very course thread screw that will screw into the end of the pipe and then once it is as tight as you can manage pull it out? You would need to fix the screw onto the end of some form of rod, do you know any friendly welders?

Failing that maybe a long length of something very stiff, [calm down at the back please, ] form a U shaped bend at one end a couple of inches long and small enough to just push down the inside of the pipe and push it all the way through and then pull back so that the bent end hooks over the far end of the pipe.

[fred]

In article , Andrew Gabriel writes

Lasso noose on end of garden cane[1]?

[1] or length of plastic plumbing pipe or conduit or drain rod or elect cable fishing rod

[Olav M]

Agreed! I've used similar technique when clearing a plastic shower waste pipe. It was blocked with hair in an unpredictable position, there were many bends. All joints were solvent welded. And plumber had unhelpfully mortared it in two places. I picked a convenient point, cut a Vee using mini hacksaw to half diameter, lifted out the curved plastic segment. Cleared mass of hair. Fixed segment back in place using Plumbers Mait and wire twisted. For your problem....angle grinder cuts cast iron very easily. Don't push too hard! AND DO NOT LOOSE segment down pipe If the pipe is in a "public" place, use a setting adhesive to refix segment. Personally I would choose Solvent based Gripfill

[Phil Addison]

Varient of this. Get a long threaded rod, say 5mm. B&Q sell such things. Also get some nuts and flat washers that will fit it. Place 2 nuts on the very end and locknut them together tightly. Find a thick rubber* washer that will go on the rod and be an easy fit inside the 15mm tube (*tap washer or make from pencil eraser etc). Add another washer and a nut to expand the washer on tightening. To do this at a distance you need to make a long box spanner. For this you need another tube that will go inside 15mm, and be a few inches shorter than the rod. Try a piece of 10mm copper tube, or I thik B&Q might sell brass tube about that size. One end needs to be squashed around a sample nut in a vice to form the box-spanner end(1). With a bit of luck this will also slightly work-harden the copper tube end to make it stronger.

If you can then manipulate this inside your stuck tube you should be able to remotely expand the rubber with the aid of a couple of small mole grips to hold the rod and turn the 10mm tube.

(1) Alternatively you might be able to buy an ordinary short 5mm box spanner and jam this in the end of the narrow tube. Box spanners, in case you're not aware are essentially hollow tubes with the spanner shape pressed onto one, or sometimes both, ends.

-- Phil Addison

[Tim Lamb]

Didn't mean to insult:-)

Basically you need a tube which will fit inside the copper pipe and is long enough to reach. Cut slots in the end. You then need a rod which tapers to a larger size at the end such that when you draw it inside the slotted pipe the tube end expands to grip.

[Dave Liquorice]

Seems a lot of work. I reckon the pushfit coupler on the end of another bit of 15mm pipe will be pretty effective. They don't blow (pull) off easy and are, I think, rated up to 10 bar.

TBH not sure if the OP has said this lost bit of pipe is actually jammed in place to just resting, out of reach, 1m from the inspection opening.

[Tim Lamb]

One of many suggestions:-)

A form of sprag clutch would also work but be much harder to fabricate.

I have to admit that *push fit* couplers are later than my last involvement in plumbing. The obstacle may well be resting hard up against the waste pipe side and need prising clear before mating with the coupler.

I hope the OP will report back.

>

[David WE Roberts]

Fascinating challenge - but beyond a certain point this could just be an indication that it would be easier to replace the pipe with plastic.

[RobertL]

they get similar problems sometimes in oil wells. there's a huge industry dedicated to extracting lost bits and pieces (or to grinding them into dust in situ). It's called "fishing".

think it will be outside your price range but might give some ideas...)

Robert

[Gloops]

7 wrote, on 07th Oct. 2012 00:22 UTC + 2 :

Hello,

Did you see a picture of it ?

Pearl.fr has one for 30 euros (comparable price) but the last few centimetres seem rigid, so pay attention if your tube is angular.

They also have an autonomous model, of which the rigid part of the tube seems shorter, but it is much more expansive.