Burnt Cooker Cable Advice?

Just removed old electric cooker to make way for new - the cable on the back connecting it to the 30A main was almost burnt through to the core, and the back of the cooker has burn marks up the back (not near the connections, but in a narrow strip). There is no sign of burning or overheating at the terminals on either the cooker or at the wall connection. Has this simply happened because the cable might have been trapped against the back of the cooker? (I don't know if it was or not). The cooker was never that great - it was bought new, but the melamine on the cabinets either side has warped because it got so hot. Even some old wallpaper on the wall behind the cooker has burnt. If it is this that has caused it, how can I ensure that the cable is not trapped next time? It's a really tight space. Thanks.

Reply to
Maria
Loading thread data ...

It sounds like the cooker was simply bloody inefficient and leaking heat everywhere - a double whammy for the cable since its carrying more average current and being subjected to extra heat loss.

If the new cooker is better insulated oven wise, and the new cable is up to spec, then there should be no problem.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Thank you. An electrician put the last cooker in, but I can't remember if he used his own cable or if there was one attached to the cooker already. It looks like standard 30A cable. Is there a special cable for cookers?

Reply to
Maria

Every new cooker I've bought recently has come with no cable, you have to supply and fit your own. Any usuually a bloody fiddly job it is too, the last cooker I practically had to stand it upside down in order to get to the connecting lugs.

JGH

Reply to
jgharston

Old cookers have no insulation and may have poor ventilation so they get hot at the surfaces. A new one will not get as hot as long as the ventilation is OK. It is still advisable to keep the cable on the rear wall using cable clips rather than the rear of the cooker and it is usually better to bring it up from the bottom as cookers tend to be hotter at the top.

Reply to
dennis

I therefore feel suitably smug that the one I fitted the other week took hardly any time and had some very easy to use terminal mechanism.

(At least, I hope that doesn't waken the cooker gods...)

Reply to
polygonum

Sounds like the cooker's insulation may have been missing since birth.

NT

Reply to
NT

Also in most istallation manuals they generally advise of a min gap between cooker walls and adjoining units (and probably back wall), which, I have to admit I have ignored all my life.

Reply to
ss

That may be true for free standing cookers but not for slot in or built in cookers. Most have vents at the rear edge to cool the rear and to allow for steam to evaporate.

Reply to
dennis

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.