Any reason (regs etc.) why you cannot build a stud partition with angle iron ? Simon.
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18 years ago
building stud partition with angle iron
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18 years ago
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18 years ago
Although that is light alloy you can join with self tapping screws. Angle iron will need drilling and bolting, or welding. The screfix stuff is a much better bet. Better still is the range Lafarge do. Google for lafarge plasterboard. They have lots of details on their site.
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- posted
18 years ago
It should be quite practical to build the frame with no driling or welding, just plenty of cutting and bolting. For fixing PB to a tough iron frame I assume no more nails is the only practical option. Not so sure how youd deal with the fact that the frame wont be flat, and will have bolts heads sticking out. Plywood skin with holes cutout to hide bolt heads, followed by PB?
Wood frame must be easier surely, and cheaper.
NT
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18 years ago
How are you going to screw it to the floor and ceiling or put the bolts through if you don't drill it?
Drill and screw?
Weld it.
Why use PB if you've already got a plywood skin?
Maybe if the OP had said why he thought a steel frame would be a good idea ...
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18 years ago
The reason is, I want to build a narrow "camden partition" (air gap with loose fill mineral wool) to isolate the new bathroom wall from next door's squeaking toilet roll holder, and nose blowing etc. that comes through since their loo is right next to the wall. I need the studs to be very stiff but not very deep (thus angle iron). Final surface will be aquapanel for tiling, maybe plywood skin behind this. Any better ideas to accomplish this would be welcome. Simon.
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18 years ago
Other than it sounds like hard work, or a lot of welding....no...
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18 years ago
How about gluing strips of expanded polystyrene to the wall to support the aquapanel?
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18 years ago
Sounds good-ish. Welding would be the best bet, welders start from about =A350 new. Red oxide to prevent rust would be a good move too.
It might be easier tho to go for a twin skin frameless solid wood wall. Instead of framing, you use sheet ply as the structure, and PB clad it for fire resistance, finish and weight. 18mm ply is a very thin wall, 2 of those with 1" loose fill and you're camdenned. 1" wood strip top and bottom is what the sheet is fixed to. You'll want lots of fixing points for the 1" strip to the ceiling, as 1" isnt that strong. Every 6" should be ok, with all fixings pilot holed first.
NT
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18 years ago
Angle iron is riddled with holes. Are you thinking of bedframes?
practical option.
not sure I'd consider that very practical.
Ideal, yes. Lot of folk have neither the kit nor the skill though.
because the ply skin would be swiss cheese like. If your frame is bolted, the ply needs a hole for every bolthead.
NT
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18 years ago
No, you're thinking of Dexion or similar. Regular angle iron isn't perforated.
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18 years ago
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18 years ago
I've got several partition walls with a partial iron framework - it's part of the structure of the house.
The easiest way to attach the plasterboard is to bolt a piece of wood to the iron, and then screw into that!
I can't see the advantages of doing it out of choice.
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18 years ago
After 70 years with the red oxide, there isn't a hint of rust on the internal frames here, so that's sounds good.
I'd be tempted to use some square section tube. You can then drill into it and use self-tappers to hold your PB onto it. Canal boats can be done like this, although condensation can be a problem - which won't apply in an internal wall.
You get a nice mix of densities there as well, which should help with sound absorbtion.