Building my own garden gate/fence

[mo]

Hi All

Without going into too much detail and all the complexities I need to build a fence and gate. I have been looking up prices etc and this seems to be the cheaper way whilst giving me control to get the exact sizing right.

Basically I need to put up :

a post > 3 foot fence panel > a post > a gate > a 3 foot fence panel > a post.

1 fence panel and the gate are straight whilst the other fence panel is at a 90 degree angle like an L shape. It will all be 6 foot high

So:

1) I want to use the posts and just buy some timber and build the fence onto the posts. I envisage doing this but attaching 2 vertical wooden bits vertically and then nailing some timber or feather board onto it.

I don't want to order ready made panels as they usually come 6 foot high by

6 foot wide which means I will have to order 2 and cut them, and it is too much fannying about TBH.

Anyone see any issues with this plan? I was going to use timber by my friend suggested using featherboard as it is lighter and cheaper.

Obviously the key to this is having solid fence posts in (wooden ones) and ensuring the 2 batons going vertically are fixed solidly - anyone have any ideas on how to attach the batons so they are within the edges of the posts? One of the posts will be up against the house so I cannot just put the wood horizontally between the posts and screw in from each side, if you see what I mean.. are there any fixings I could use?

2) The actual gate. Will be roughly 3-4 foot wide. I again envisage doing this my using some sort of Z frame made from timber and then nailing/screwing in timber/featherboard along the front. My major concern with this is what sort of frame is the best and what are the best fixings to use? I envisage soemthign liek so: tips?

[mo]

First paragraph should say nailing 2 horizontal bits of timber between the posts!

[Bob Minchin]

Make sure you get the diagonal brace the right way round. The lower end should point toward the bottom hinge. Cutting this exactly to size is important and preferably letting the ends into two shallow recesses, one in the top rail and one in the bottom. Look up legded and braced gates/door for detail designs. Use one fixing at each intersection of each vertical board with each rail and brace otherwise the wood will split when it dries out.

All timber you use should be pressure treated (looks slightly green). Stain it whatever other colour you want for cosmetic purposes.

Again on the fencing, only one nail across the width of the feather board. It is normal for the thin edge of the boarding to point one way on the first bay and then reverse the direction on the next and so on.

HTH

Bob

[NT]

not really, its standard practice.

either bits of metal if theyre between the uprights, or just overlap the ends over the fence posts and nail them.

I thought you just decided on a Z frame. You need some proper rigid upright pieces to use with that as well, not just featheredge

nails are one of the worst, but they work well enough

dunk cut ends in preservative rather than just brush it on.

Also...

[mo]

Is the Z design the best to use?

Also, for my gate would I have any issues using timber for the entire thing rather than using featehredge on the brace

not sure what would look better, a featheredged gate with featheredged panels or a gate that looks different.

Also, the thing I was looking for before was arris rails with brackets - to secure the featheredge onto the posts.

Anyone know if there is an equivalent where I can just buy plain timber and use a similar thing that does the same job as an arris bracket?

[The Medway Handyman]

Its the only design to use. Without the diagonal braces the gate will sag on the non hinge side & drag along the floor.

Simplest way to build a gate & I build dozens;

Buy some feather edge board and some 36 x 88 treated timber

the FB to the height of the gate.

Cut 3 - 36 x 88 pieces of timber to the exact width of the gate you want. Lay them out on the ground. Take one piece of FB & mark the centre and

200mm from top & bottom.

Secure one piece of FB to the 3 rails using a square to make sure they are exactly at right angles, and 'thick' edge of the FB flush, use 2 screws in each join - I use drywall screws. Lay out the rest of the FB without screwing to get a roughly 10mm overlap, then secure with 2 screws per cross rail.

Flip the gate over. Lay out 2 pieces of 36 x 88 diagonally and mark where they cross the horizontals. Cut along these lines as accurately as possible & secure the cross braces to the horizontals with a screw. Flip the gate ocver again and screw through the FB to the cross braces.

If you want the FB to be flush with the posts, then arris rail & brackets is the way to go. If not use a bevelled rail secured to the posts with large screws, then nail the FB to that.

HTH

[mo]

Thanks for the reply Medway Handyman!

I would have built the Z first but your way sounds better - and I not you suggested a double z (or sideways M kind of thing).

[The Medway Handyman]

Depends on the height of the gate, if its a full size 6' then you need 3 cross members & 2 braces. For a smaller gate - I'd guess up to about 4' you could just have 2 cross members & 1 diagonal.