The Billy-Oh ready-made tongue and groove sheds are shown on Amazon with the boards horizontal, but when my father built poultry houses in the 1950s he always placed the boards vertical so that the rain would not accumulate in the grooves, but run down to the ground. So which is best, vertical or horizontal? I reckon I can build my own shed cheaper (and better) than the ready-made ones.
MM
On Feb 16, 8:03=A0pm, MM wrote: Ship lap.
In message , MM writes
With boards vertical, the wind can blow rain into grooves, and it could creep round the tongue to the inner side.
With the boards horizontal, and the grooves downward, the rain may be more likely to run down from board to board.
The one way which would almost certainly be the worst would be boards horizontal, grooves upwards.
I reckon that #2 would be the way to do it.
That's how my (commercial) stable is built. However I built my shed with horizontal sawn and treated feather edge (much cheaper) and that has been fine.
That's not tongue and groove, though.
MM
Yes, but it looks ugly. Tongue and groove *always* looks neater. I loathe shiplap. Always looks shoddy to me.
MM
The profile is intended to shed the water. T&G allows the water to soak into the groove, it's not intended for external use. Shiplap looks fine to me.
As the frame of the shed would normally have a top and bottom rail with several vertical timbers to best support the roof it would not make sense to fit the cladding vertically as there would only be top and bottom fixing
Extra horizontal timbers to fix vertical boards to would just be a waste of timber and time
Re your earlier reply shiplap is tongue and groove but with a scalloped profile from the tongue edge rather than a V groove
I have built the occasional 'strong' shed by cladding frame with OSB sheet first and then thin v groove t&g on top (mainly because i had access to some free sheets of pre used OSB at the time but had to buy the cladding)
Regards
Regards
The profile is intended to shed the water. T&G allows the water to soak into the groove, it's not intended for external use. Shiplap looks fine to me.
????? so these have got wrong then?
Around here someone has uses that with vertical grooves on some ghastly flats. After 8 years it looks derelict already.
Horizontal is the way to go for sure.
That's cedar which is nigh on rot proof (they use for tiling aka "shingles") so the issue os fairly moot AFAICS.
The cedar shingles on my house were well rotted when I demolished it.
The condition for rot is PERMANENT dampness. Not a rain shower.
That sadly happens as dirt dust and organic detritus and mosses build up.
Not when it rains occasionally.
In 1972 My dad brought home a pile of tongue and groove floorboards reclaimed from alterations to the offices in the engineering factory where he worked.
Using these and some 3 x 2 timbers reclaimed from the partition walls we built a garden shed 12 x 8
guess what
Yep it is still there not rotted and still in use
All we have done is re felted the roof
Oh and moved it up the garden when he sold the bottom bit
That was fun sheets of exterior ply and scaffold pole rollers tree winch and rope
Regards
That supports my view of tongue and groove, which is that it looks better/neater than shiplap.
MM
Has it been your experience that building to one's own design requirements works out cheaper that a ready-made shed? Yes, one can get a cheapo shed off Amazon, but the comments usually only give them
1 star. Contrast that to my local timber yard to see the shed prices:Whereas I reckon I can get a *lot* of 5/8" tongue and groove for, say, £200.
MM
Almost certainly it's a bit of swings and roundabouts. Shiplap probably drains well. With T&G, even with tongues up, there may be some tendency for water to creep into - and be retained in - the join. However, it's probably a somewhat more draught-proof. Either way, it's probably a good idea to slosh (or squirt) a bit of wood preservative on it when the spirit moves you.
I always apply creocote (formerly creosote) liberally to any outside timberwork I construct. The other, new-fangled stuff just seems to sit on the surface.
MM
Normally building your own would be cheaper if you can get the materials at 'trade price' or cheaper rather that from the diy thieves
Its a bit of a time versus cost question
The most recent shed I put up a 10 x 10 apex with double doors 2 opening and
2 fixed windows cost about 900ukp delivered but took only an hour to erect. Even the doors and windows were ready hung in the framesSet that against the time to draw up, create cutting list, work out quantities, price up and collect or order for delivery, buy felt, door and window furniture and fixings, build the frames 1 floor 2 sides (one with windows) 2 gable ends (one with door frame) 2 roof panels and clad (I have a chop saw but no nail gun) Then assemble
Knock up a couple of ledge and brace doors and a couple of opening windows, hang these.
And as I would have built the whole lot on site because of the size needing a couple of days of good weather
Buying was the best option for me as I lots of other work to do
Actually, it reminds me of Hastings Old Town, where the boats are all pulled up on to the shingle beach ("The Stade"). They all look like they've been constructed from shiplap.
MM
No, I want to build a shed from T&G that looks nice. This can't be achieved with shiplap. Shiplap may be fine for a rustic timber cabin in the woods where hunters stay the night, but not for a garden shed.
MM
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