Broken Rodding Point (2nd attempt)

[Tricky Dicky]

Whilst re-laying some paving flags today, I removed the root of an old Berb eris which was in the way to find this buried in soil and gravel. The broke n stub of pipe is a rodding point which was all broken and the metal cover just lying loose on top.

It should look like this.

I want to try and repair it without removing the entire drain. Currently th e sewer is venting straight up that pipe with no water trap. The internal d iam. of the pipe stub is approx. 100mm and the external is approx. 130mm ne ither of which matches current plastic drainage. What I am hoping to do is replace the rodding cover with one of these.

Secured in place with one of these.

To hold it all in place it would be surounded with concrete/mortar. I would be grateful for any opinions on the proposed repair or any alternative sug gestions which do not include mending the drain with a new one. There is a certain amount of urgency as the cement mixer is being returned on Tuesday and I need to complete the work tomorrow.

Richard

[harry]

rberis which was in the way to find this buried in soil and gravel. The bro ken stub of pipe is a rodding point which was all broken and the metal cove r just lying loose on top.

the sewer is venting straight up that pipe with no water trap. The internal diam. of the pipe stub is approx. 100mm and the external is approx. 130mm neither of which matches current plastic drainage. What I am hoping to do i s replace the rodding cover with one of these.

ld be grateful for any opinions on the proposed repair or any alternative s uggestions which do not include mending the drain with a new one. There is a certain amount of urgency as the cement mixer is being returned on Tuesda y and I need to complete the work tomorrow.

I assume you still have the part broken off. Tape it back on with loads of duct tape and surround with concrete.

[Tricky Dicky]

Sorry Harry the broken part was all in bits and quite a lot was missing despite combing through the soil and gravel dug away. Patching it together had crossed my mind but it is not possible, thanks.

Richard

[Jeff Layman]

I had a similar problem a dozen years ago, where to lay a level patio (with block paving) the previous owners had used a company who simply broke off the drain hopper outside the kitchen and covered it with concrete to the level of the paving. It was no problem until the kitchen sink got a blockage and I couldn't work out how to rod the drains.

So I chipped out the concrete to find a jagged-edged broken pipe like yours. I got a new hopper and grid (checked the neighbour's arrangement to see what should be there) but how to fix it? In the end I found a short length of 110 mm pipe to fit to the broken bit, and cut it to the correct level to take the hopper. Then I fixed the pipe to the jagged edge with Isopon car body filler. When set, it was solid as a rock and the hopper fitted perfectly.

[Tricky Dicky]

Hi Jeff, my problem is that the stub of pipe internal diam. is only about 4 " and will not take 110mm pipe nor will it take a spigot that will fit 110m m pipe, I have tried. The top of that broken pipe does have to be sealed, t he water in the bottom is the water trap between the gridded part and the r odding point. The pipe leading to the sewer, you can see the black connecto r to the right, is above that water level so at present it is venting to th e open air. I have gone ahead and bought the cover seal and adaptor which l ook as if they will do the job even though it will probably be prouder than the normal cover but it is off to one side of the drive so will not presen t a trip hazard.

Richard

[Jeff Layman]

It was some time ago, but I had to do it in several steps. Like yours, the 110 mm PVC pipe did not fit into the broken earthenware pipe. The broken pipe height varied over 10 - 12 mm as it was jagged. The first stage was to use Isopon to level it off until it was about a mm higher than the topmost jagged edge. Then I cut the 110 mm PVC pipe to the correct length (for the hopper to be level with the paving surface when placed in the PVC pipe), rested it on the set Isopon, and smoothed more Isopon around the pipe to stick it to the Isopon already there. When set, I pushed the hopper into the PVC pipe. Job done.

No idea if you could do yours that way, as I can't tell from the photo how much pipe you've got to play with. Also, the water trap level in mine was considerably lower than yours, so the top of the pipe wasn't damp; I'm not sure if Isopon would stick to damp earthenware. If you could do it my way, you wouldn't need the flexible adaptor..

[Tricky Dicky]

Job done! The adaptor was a perfect fit and the whole arrangement is only a bout 25mm taller than the original, the flange on the cover cap is level wi th the top of the drain just the screw on top projecting above. I am not ev en going to mortar around it the adaptor is quite thick walled rubber and t he whole thing sits quite rigid. I have left it so I have the option to rem ove the whole cap for rodding purpose the hole under the cap is wide enough to pass a jetting hose but is more constricted than the original for pushi ng rods through. As someone said "I like it when a plan comes together", it 's Sods Law these potential disasters always happen over bank holiday week end when half the places are shut. I keep saying to myself not to DIY on ba nk holidays but as usual mission creep and poor weather have extended the j ob. Thanks Harry & Jeff.

Richard

[Tricky Dicky]

Forgot to include the photo of finished job

Richard

[Tricky Dicky]

Forgot to include the photo of the finished job.

Richard

[harry]

Well get a lump of polystyrene to fit into the drain and carve the top bit up to the shape needed. Pour concrete round it and remove when set.