broken pine dining chair

[Dundonald]

I have a slightly broken dining chair made of pine.

Description

The back of the chair has two thin pieces of pine (about 6 or 7 mm thick, 4-5 cm wide) crossing each other, and at the point of cross, each piece has half a cut out so they cross flush. So if you imagine you are looking at an X from the back, the bottom right part of the X has broken about halfway past the intersection, i.e. about 3/4 along the whole piece going from top left to bottom right.

The break half way along has zig zagged and is thinner toward the end of the break. i.e. it is was not a clean break. It looks to have snapped and been pealed off if you like. Hard to explain.

The Question

I would like to glue the two pieces back together. I'm thinking of no nails. Is this the right type of glue to use?

Any more suggestions on how to complete this are also most welcome please.

I guess once glued I will also have to lightly sand both sides to prevent any splinters?

Thanks.

[andrewpreece]

I would use PVA wood glue, the gloopy white stuff. There are two types of no-nails, one of which is based on volatiles ( no good for this purpose IMHO ), the other is white and based on water. Whilst this second type of no-nails is better than the first, both are high-grab, thick glues and will not be the best adhesives to use.

Yes, you will probably have to sand the joint to get a good finish, as it is not a clean break. I would consider clamping the joint whilst it sets to get the best possible joint/finish: have you got a g-clamp? If so you could clamp the joint with that, though you'll probably need a packing piece on each side to spread the load. Be careful not to glue the packing pieces to the break by accident! If in doubt, rub a little candle wax on the faces of the packing pieces so any glue that is squeezed out will not adhere to them. That would be how I would do it, anyway.

Andy.

[Dundonald]

imagine

Thanks Andy, any brand suggestions and any particular reason why this would be the better solution? No second guessing here, just trying to understand. I'm no glue expert. :)

purpose

Similar to above really, would appreciate if you could expand on this so I can understand why these two options wouldn't be the best.

Don't have a G-clamp but more than willing to go buy one if I need it.

Thanks for your help.

[Rick]

I'd use PVA wood glue, and clamp it (not so tight you squeeze all the glue out)

Then Sand it off.

The gule joint will be stronger than the wood .... but the wood will be week neer the joint.

Rick

[Dundonald]

Thanks Rick, any suggestions on a particular brand of PVA wood glue?

[zymurgy]

Evo Stik is usually the best brand.

Rgds

Paul.

[Rick]

I use whats in the shop, which normall means evo stick.

Rick

[andrewpreece]

No brand recommendations I'm afraid, PVA is used for glueing wood, I used to use it on my model aircraft! No-nails is general purpose and rather thick stuff. I would not use the solvent based no-nails under any circumstances for fine woodwork joiney as it forms an instant skin when exposed to air and is very thick. The water-based no-nails is white and is similar to PVA in many ways, but it is also designed for 'grab', though it is not as good as the solvent-based stuff in this effect. You do not want 'grab' for your application, you want a gap-filling easy-flowing ( for good penetration ) wood glue, and that is PVA. You can try the white 'no-nails' if you like, it may be ok. You won't get a second try if it isn't though!

Not strictly necessary to get a glued joint, but probably necessary to get the best joint in terms of strength and appearance.

Andy.

[bigcat]

why do you want a brand name? any shit'll do it.

NT

[The Natural Philosopher]

USE Cyanoacrylate or epoxy. I have never found PVA strong enough on such a small area.

[Dundonald]

instant skin

'no-nails'

Thanks for your suggestions. Looks like most people suggest PVA wood glue and from the sounds of it rightly so. I'm no glue expert so I'm glad I checked in to this forum for advice. Your responses are much appreciated. If I hadn't I think I'd be using no nails and wind up making a right mess.

I'll go out and buy one.

Thanks again.