All bulbs sold in decent shops (including supermarkets) have been longlife for at least three decades. The cheap shit ones don't even have a fuse inside and tend to blow the one in the fusebox.
All bulbs sold in decent shops (including supermarkets) have been longlife for at least three decades. The cheap shit ones don't even have a fuse inside and tend to blow the one in the fusebox.
Do you actually know what a GLS type is?
It's a pompous way of saying incandescent.
the colour temperature of the light is significantly different. You probably don't remember when car headlamps were first fitted with halogen bulbs.
We were talking about brightness.
I remember xenon bulbs, those stupid blue/green/yellow things that change colour with angle and look like an ambulance approaching. I engage full beam every time I see one.
No, I'm not talking about those, I'm referring to what we now think of normal headlights. In th '60s they used ordinary incandescent bulbs! There was somewhat of an improvement when halogen ones turned up.
Perhaps in the focussing. But a halogen bulb in my house looks very similar to a regular filament lamp.
They look similar - often same envelope, but the light is "whiter".
Perhaps. But my post was not about colour temperature. We're talking brightness.
watt for watt halogen lamps are brighter. Halogen replacement for incandescent are usually lower wattage than the original - by as much as 25%
Whatever the difference is, it's not enough for me to notice. But I certainly noticed this LED light being dim. It said 90W equivalent. I compared it to an old CFL that was rated 100W equivalent, and it was about half the brightness.
To my eyes, the halogen is both bluer and somewhat brighter than the "normal" incandescent lamp for the same power input, letting me read 20% smaller text using the halogen one. This applies for both mains and 12 volt bulbs. The relationship also seems to hold for torch bulbs. Checking was done by looking at both in operation side by side in identical fittings.
And your 'coiled coil' is?
FWIW, 'coiled coil' were around 60 years ago. More to do with given an even light within a frosted envelope than efficiency.
The very best mains production tungsten halogen lamps are some twice as efficient as the worst commonly available domestic ones. But such efficiency costs more and may have a shorter life.
Anyway. Getting back to the original topic. When saying "60W equivalent", it is quite obvious you're not referring to a halogen or some other specially brighter bulb. Everyone is familiar with how bright a normal tungsten 60W is. Writing it as 700 lumens means nothing to most people.
And you have 'regular' lamps of the same wattage as halogen? What country is this?
You're forgetting that the comparison may involve different quantities of bulbs for each. For example I remember comparing two 28W halogens to one 60W incandescent and seeing a similar brightness.
I have some 100W halogen lamps in GLS size. ?They have a smaller quartz enveloped lamp inside though.
They don't appear to be easy to get now and the dimmer energy costing lamps will have to be used in pairs.
Try one of these. It's the 15W version of the 10W one I got. Mine looks like a 60W incandescent, so I'm guessing this will be about 100W.
When you say pairs.... I remember seeing a bayonet cap double adapter somewhere once, but I can't find one for sale now.
in the dim and distant past you could buy them in Woolworths. But you can buy ES double adaptors on ebay.
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