boxing pipework

[Fred]

Hello,

I'm about to box a vertical run of pipes running to/from the boiler in the kicthen. The box will need to be about 5' tall and 1' wide. So I screw a piece of timber either side of the pipes for the sides, so far so good, but what do I use for the 5'x1' face of the box? Would you just use plywood and paint it?

I can't remember what was there before; it may have been hardboard. It was something pretty thin IIRC.

I don't know what plans my OH has for redecorating the kitchen. Could I paper or tile over plywood? Or would it be best to leave the box untiled/unpapered to allow for access should something terrible happen?

I did wonder about plasterboard: much cheaper than ply and can be painted, papered and tiled but since I would have to cut it to size, how could I get a neat edge?

Thanks in advance.

[TheScullster]

"Fred" wrote

I used MDF for similar application. Careful filling of screw holes etc and you get a good surface for painting. Recommend that you insulate the pipes before fitting as the constant temperature fluctuation may open up joints etc

Phil

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I'd say MDF is ideal.

Hardboard is a bit on the weak side.

Best not cover them up at all if you think something terrible might happen. ;-)

If you're tiling, that provides the edge. You might be able to make the box an exact number of tiles wide. Or use tile edging strip if the tiles ain't suitable.

[Roger Mills]

At 1' wide, you need something a bit more rigid than hardboard.

When I had to make a similar box recently, I used MDF (either 6 or 8mm thick - can't remember which - I just happened to have some lying around. I painted mine - but it was on a painted wall anyway. Unless you *expect* to have to access the pipes, there's no reason not to paper or tile over the box if you wish.

Getting neat edges on MDF isn't difficult if you have access to a table saw - or even a hand-held circular saw. The same *doesn't* apply to plasterboard - whose edges are not supposed to be exposed. Only use plasterboard if you're going to use some expanded metal corners and then skim over it - unless you're tiling all round, in which case it would be ok.

[GMM]

At work, there's always someone boxing something in and the chippies seem to use MDF every time. I guess one advantage is that you can get so many thicknesses of MDF, you can always find one that's right to give a rigid job without overkill.

In terms of removability, it seems to me that either you rely on having a good job under it, so you don't need to get to it, or you 'know' where the screws etc are. On possibility is to tile then fix using the screws that you use to fix mirrors, with a chromed dome screwed into the head.

[The Natural Philosopher]

plasterboard, and fill with insulation stiff.rockwool. Or 12mm MDF for a painted finish maybe.

tile certainmly. Paper ? Depends on the finish, but should be OK.

No. to be frank ripping out and redoing boxing is hardly the worst DIY job.

You cant. Sand it afterwards! Or use some hard beading and skim to that.

[John Rumm]

You basically lap the sides or the front and then fill with the proper board fill filler. Surform to the approx shape you want and then sand - the filler is designed to sand very easily and smooth. Its easy to get something that looks good even if just painted.

(having said that, as others have said MDF etc would need less overall titting about)

[The Medway Handyman]

MDF.

[Heliotrope Smith]

Whatever happened to conti board, does it still exist? I must have boxed in a thousand miles of pipes with that stuff. No sanding, no painting, no cutting for the width. A few screws and some nice white caps and Bob's yer uncle, a nice good looking quick job. A couple of minutes and the cover is off for inspection.

[NoSpam]

Use MDF or ply, then either tile or sand, cover with lining paper and paint

[Tim S]

Heliotrope Smith coughed up some electrons that declared:

It's here:

think B&Q still do it.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Most of the sheds still sell it. But only in certain widths - so you might end up with a rather larger box than necessary.

[The Medway Handyman]

So do Wickes, but they call it furniture panel

[Frank Erskine]

On Tue, 19 May 2009 07:48:50 GMT, "The Medway Handyman" had this to say:

[Dave Plowman (News)]

[Mark]

Make sure the MDF cannot get wet. Otherwise it turns into weetabix.

[Roger Mills]

I think you'll find that a high proportion of - even relatively expensive - funiture is made of veneered chipboard, rather than solid wood, these days - even if that does offend your definition of furniture!