Bosch PMF180E multitool offer - 42.50UKP

[D.M.Chapman]

to under 50 quid which is the best price I've seen. Also, if you go to:

can get another 15% off (of everything at B&Q today).

Best price I've seen...

Darren

[Adrian C]

Thanks. One gift for Xmas sorted...

For me! ;-)

[Lawrence]

Ditto. For £42 something, it was a snip.

My B&Q didn't have any other tools. I was particularly interested in the cutter for removing tile grout. Are they generally available?

Lawrence

[The Medway Handyman]

Very useful tool, great bargain at that price.

I've found Lawsons & Axminster stock them & are reasonably priced.

The tile grout thingy is a little on the thick side for some tiles.

[John Rumm]

How does it compare to the Fein one?

comparing carbide segment saw to 2p)

[The Medway Handyman]

I'll have a look when I get a mo.

[js.b1]

If the grout is just Mapei etc non-epoxy then a HD stanley blade will get it out after a few scores, if the intention is to either remove a tile or regrout. That is true even if the tiles are not edge-glazed - where serrated tools will just rip the face glaze off.

[YAPH]

Miles Tool & Machinery had best prices when I was buying my cordless version earlier this year, and before that I've bought blades from Rapid Electronics IIRC

You can use an ordinary wood or metal blade if you don't ever want to use it for wood or metal again (or if it's too blunt to be useful on the original materials anyway).

[Stuart Noble]

I'm still not convinced, based on my experience with the Bosch power scraper, which it greatly resembles. A lot of bouncing about but no real power

[John Rumm]

I also have a power scraper (got given it in fact) - and its not comparable to an oscillating tool.

There is no bouncing with the carbide segment saw - its more like using a small angle grinder (without the dust), since the movement is around the central axis. The one I pictured:

typically use for cutting out sections of tiles in situ. So for example installing a shaver socket in the middle of a large tile where I wanted a rectangular cut out, or the other day, retrofitting a new bar mixer shower for a friend where we needed to cut out half of a pair of tiles - used it to both rake the old grout, and cut across the tiles before attacking the wall behind with the SDS.

[Stuart Noble]

Ok, watched the video and, yes, it does look useful. In stock too. I know I have some floorboards to cut in situ before long. Anybody used it for that?

[The Medway Handyman]

Yes, more than once. Excellent. Very narrow kerf as well, so it does a neat job.

[pcb1962]

I have, both proper floorboards and t+g chipboard. I do most of the cut as a plunge cut with a circular saw then use the bosch to finish the ends/corners, saves having to cut into the next board. You could do the whole thing with the bosch but it would be very slow (and noisy, ear defenders recommended).

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I have use my Multi-Master for this but it's much slower than the broken off jigsaw blade method. Of course that was with the supplied saw - there might be coarser ones available

[The Medway Handyman]

You've mentioned the broken jigsaw blade before Dave & I'm tempted to try it out given the price of the Bosch blades.

Say you want to saw through 20mm boards, but not cut into the joist below.

If you break the blade at 20mm with the blade holder in the 'down' position will it cut through a 20mm board or do you have to break at 20m with the holder 'up'?

My jigsaw has a an 18mm stroke. so it could cut 18mm past the base of the board?

[John Rumm]

One of my most typical uses. Quite handy when you can't cut over a joist as well. because of its fine blade, you can cut through a board at a 45 degree slant - then when you replace the board you only need move it up by a mm or so to have the fixed board support the cut end.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Pull the blade fully out and measure from the saw bed. Snap the blade off so it's slightly longer than the depth of cut needed (2 or 3mm) - a slight groove in the joist won't matter. Of course make sure there are no pipes etc immediately below.;-) To start the cut place the saw with blade near horizontal and the front of the bed on the board, then firmly but slowly pivot it into the work moving forward at the same time. After getting to the edge turn it round and cut to the other edge. With a bit of practice you'll find you can cut a board as quickly as if it were up - and the broken blade lasts as long as any.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

One way to guarantee squeaky boards. ;-)

[John Rumm]

Not if you stick a couple of screws into the overlap.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Your boards must be better quality than mine. ;-)

If forced to cut other than on a joist I screw a bit of 2x2 etc between the adjacent boards to support the joint. And screw them to that. Messy if you have exposed boards, of course. But I don't.