Boiler not striking up (again)!

I'm thinking loose wire in the plug.

It was one of yours yes, had it a couple of years now.

I'm guessing its the plug on the end of the wire, as opposed to the PCB. I'm going to take a closer look on my next day off.

Reply to
Simon (Dark Angel)
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In message , "Simon (Dark Angel)" writes

Ah well, you know where I am

Reply to
geoff

Hope your still reading this.

Well having done some tinkering today, I'm not sure but I think there might be a problem with the PCB.

When I "wiggled" (for want of a better word) either of the plugs that connect the temperature sensor or the boiler thermostat control to the PCB, the boiler would strike up.

Have removed the pcb and examined the solder connections, can't see anything wrong and have tested continuity between these plug and the back of the PCB and all seems well.

Was wondering if there's a break somewhere on the board that was connecting when one of the connectors was "wiggled" as it were?

Just trying to make head nor tail of the wiring diagram to see what else to test for (I have experience with electrics, but not electronic fault finding).

Reply to
Simon (Dark Angel)

Quick addendum.

Removed the plug to the temperature sensor, tested the yellow wires, no continuity.

Removed the plug to the Temperature control and turned it to max. There was continuity between the 2 orange wires and continuity between the 2 white wires.

Removed the plug to the air pressure switch, tested the orange wires, no continuity.

Any ideas?

Reply to
Simon (Dark Angel)

In message , "Simon (Dark Angel)" writes

Its only electrics where the fault lies from what you've said

If the connector pins and their pads on the pcb look OK (check carefully in good light), then the next port of call has to be the loom wiring. If you have a broken wire where it attaches to a connector, you won't notice it as the insulation is also crimped to the pin. Give the wire a gentle tug to see if there is any elasticity there

Also, check that one of the pads hasn't cracked away from the track it should be attached to on the solder side of the pcb. The Suprima pcb itself is a real cheap and nasty bit of kit

Reply to
geoff

In message , "Simon (Dark Angel)" writes

That's because the temperature sensor has a resistance of 1MOhm at 20C. You need to test it with a decent meter

The pot will go from 0 - 1MOhm, the other two wires are to the switch. Not sure why they should be short circuit when the pot is set to max though, I'll check tomorrow

They are the common and normally open connections on the microswitch. When the fan operates the APS, the contacts will be short circuit

Reply to
geoff

I tested it at 2M ohm, but will check again.

If I read the flow chart right, its supposed to be short circuit?

I reconnected the plug and turned the power on, was getting voltage on both pins if that's of any help?

Reply to
Simon (Dark Angel)

With the plugs connected (and the power off) I checked for continuity between where the cable terminates in the plug, and the solder joint on the back of the PCB, and got a continuity reading on all terminals.

Reply to
Simon (Dark Angel)

That tests the conductivity of the solder. A common failure on PCBs is that the pad lifts from the board and breaks the copper track that connects to the pad. You need to do the test between the pad and another on the same track and do a visual check with a magnifier. If its broken you will need to run a piece of wire to repair the track.

Reply to
dennis

In message , "Simon (Dark Angel)" writes

Well it looks like you have something not giving a good connection in that area, or your fiddling is disturbing something else in the loom

It looks like its down to fiddling about and observation now

There's a bad connection somewhere, you just have to find it ... no mysterious or devious electronics fault, no need to go around measuring voltages and such like

Reply to
geoff

In message , "dennis@home" writes

Dennis - you are entering territory where you know less than you know about most things you know f*ck all about

I on the other hand, really do know how to get to the bottom of this

so be a good boy and f*ck off and leave me to it

Reply to
geoff

In message , "Simon (Dark Angel)" writes

Can you be in front of the boiler tomorrow

It might be worth you giving me a ring at work and I can lead you through in real time

01923 229224
Reply to
geoff

I appreciate the offer, however I don't get back from work till 530 pm :(

Don't suppose you'll still be available at that time?

Reply to
Simon (Dark Angel)

In message , "Simon (Dark Angel)" writes

Unlikely

might be able to sort something out saturday

Reply to
geoff

You are a pratt, what I said was perfectly true. Are you worried he might fix it without your help? You appear to have ignored such an obvious point.

Reply to
dennis

Did you read that in the Ladybird book of electronics?

Reply to
ARWadsworth

In article , Skipweasel writes

it's 'cos it's usenet and not a web forum.

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

I'm in all day Saturday if you'll be available on that number then.

Reply to
Simon (Dark Angel)

In message , "Simon (Dark Angel)" writes

Ring me at work, I'll give you my mobile number

Reply to
geoff

You never answer it!

Reply to
ARWadsworth

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