Boiler move

In readiness for a replacement combi and a relocation from airing cupboard to loft immediately above, I am going to do the wiring.

Currently there is a switched spur cable outlet next to the boiler.

Should I:

a) Use a blanking plate in place of the switched spur outlet box and take a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next to the boiler?

or b) Change the switched spur cable outlet for a switched spur and run a cable to the boiler position and have a cable outlet next to the boiler?

or

c) Use a double pole switch in place of the switched spur outlet box and take a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next to the boiler?

or

d) Something else?

I guess I need local isolation next to the boiler - but do I also need a convenient point of isolation (in the airing cupboard)?

Reply to
John
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That's the regulatory requirement. (There are other options, but they aren't worth considering.)

You could fit a socket, which might be useful during installation too, e.g. to plug a drill in. If the boiler is to be plugged into it afterwards, it should be an unswitched socket (so that isolation is by unplugging, and not by using a switch on the socket).

Seems like a good idea, particularly if your loft is not as easily accessible by everyone in the house as any of the normal rooms.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Why would that be necessary (ie having the socket unswitched), given that using a switched FCU (ie, not unpluggable) would be the norm here?

David

Reply to
Lobster

A switched FCU is a double pole switch (switches live and neutral). Not all switched sockets are double pole switched (the cheap ones only switch the live). Using an unswitched socket means that the boiler must be unplugged to kill the power and therefore the neutral is disconnected when the plug is removed.

Adam

Reply to
ARWadsworth

You can run a cable to the boiler and have a double pole fused isolator there. That is all you need.

But, I would have a unufused switch in the airing cupboard for a quick isolation in an emergency, without having to use a ladder.

You need a light over the boiler with a proper switch and light over the hatch and boarded from hatch to boiler. The ladder must be a fixed shoot-down type.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Is a fixed shoot down ladder a real requirement? It wasn't mentioned by fitter - and a neighbour doesn't have one either and he used a different fitter.

Reply to
John

No, a fixed shoot-down ladder is definitely _not_ a real requirement. We've always had just a short "normal" type ladder in the spare bedroom (more just a junk room really) for access into the loft. The CORGI guy who installed the boiler originally happily used that, as has the Alpha engineer when doing his annual service.

Having said that though, we've just completely refurbished the house and did not want a ladder in the newly-decorated spare room (that now has a bed in it instead of junk) so we bought a Telesteps Telescopic ladder from

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and it's truly brilliant. Fitted in about 10 to 15 minutes and it just sort of 'hangs' in the opening, taking no room up on the floor of the loft at all. Highly recommended :o)

Reply to
John

In message , John writes

It's prolly an advisory in one of the brochures he read

Reply to
geoff
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That looks good - biggest job will be adapting the hatch to hinge down. Not against fitting one - just not got around to it and have been happy with my step ladder.

Reply to
John

Or he has started selling loft ladders.

Adam

Reply to
ARWadsworth

You cannot have a portable ladder.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Fantastic Maxie. Fantastic. Did you see your turned down wellies in a brochure? What a man!

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

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