BLOWING FUSES PART 2 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[joruss]

thanks to all the constructive info instead of replying to you all individually, i started this new thread.

husband home heres what hes done so far>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

the first controller is an 'ACL lifestyle model LP522' ACTUALLY FLSHED OUT WHEN FIRST NEW FUSE WAS PUT IN it was then replaced with 'Siemens RWB 9' WHEN FIRST FUSE PUT IN IT WORKED,THIS WAS ABOUT A MONTH AGO. OBVIOUSLEY DUE TO THE 'HOT WEATHER' THE HEATING HAS NOT BEEN USED MUCH, AND OUR HOT WATER IS SUPPLIED BY EITHER IMMERSION OR GAS AND IT WASN'T NOTICED UNTIL A FORTNIGHT LATER, THAT THE CONTROL BOX WASN'T WORKING AGAIN I DISCONNECTED THE PUMP, FROM THE SYSTEM AND STILL THE FUSE BLEW RECONNECTED THE PUMP AND DISCONNECTED THE VALVE,STILL THE FUSE BLEW, GOT THE HOT WATER TO FIRE,THE PUMP WAS RUNNING OK,SMOOTH AND USUAL, WHEN THE HEATING WAS TURNED ON,THE FUSE BLEW AGAIN, I DISMANTALLED THE MOTOR UNIT ON THE VALVE,SO THE VALVE COULD BE SHIFTED MANUALLY,GOT THE HT WATER FIRED AGAIN, MANUALLY SHIFTED THE VALVE,AND GOT THE HOT WATER TO RUN THE HEATING SYSTEM,AS I WAS TOLD THERE COULD HAVE BEEN POSSIBLY AN AIRLOCK CAUSING THE PUMP TO STALL, BUT DOING THIS PROOVED THERE WAS NO AIRLOCK IN THE SYSTEM, WITH THE VALVE STILL SWITCHED TO CENTRAL HEATING SIDE I TRIED TO FIRE THE CENTRAL HEATING ON THE CONTROL BOX, AND THE FUSE BLEW AGAIN, THE NEXT THING I DID WAS TO DISCONNECT THE THERMOSTAT,TRIED IT AGAIN, AND THE FUSE BLEW AGAIN, THE BACK PLATE HAS BEEN CHANGED ON THE CONTROL BOX,STILL BLEW THE FUSE, THEN THE FUSE WAS BLOWING WITH ALL SWITCHED OFF ON THE CONTROL BOX, PURCHASED ANOTHER CONTROL BOX,STILL BLOWING FUSES

SO THANKS PEOPLE FOR ALL THE GREAT INFO SO FAR, IF THIS HAS ENLIGHTENED ANY OF YOU FURTHER WE WOULD APPRICIATE ANY FURTHER ASSISTANCE JO

[Matt]

The water leak seems to have affected your computer keyboard.

[:::Jerry::::]

A load of SHOUTING by the looks of it!...

Please keep to lower case other than were a Capital should be, it's kinder on the eyes and easier to read.

[Stefek Zaba]

(Scads of shouting deleted...)

Egad, you leave uk.d-i-y for a few months, come back, and the place is overtaken by an outbreak of panic ;-)

Digging through the description given by both of you, it seems you did touch the wiring, by putting in the new back plate for the new controller, right?

My money's on a simple wiring fault, such that the 'call for CH' wire is connected to a neutral or (less likely) an earth. As you yourself say in this posting, this fault wouldn't show up until it gets colder and you try to run the CH. All this panic over the pump seems misplaced to me;

10 minutes with a multimeter should sort it all out, though in your desparation to fix it you may by now have introduced multiple faults.

Sorry if this comes across as harsh, but there it is...

Stefek

[Lurch]

On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 00:01:18 +0100, Stefek Zaba scrawled:

Ahhhhh, I wondered where you were! Welcome back. ;)

[s--p--o--n--i--x]

I'd be shouting if my house had flooded and central heating packed up!

sponix

[P.R.Brady]

Jo, from what you say it looks as if the problem is in CH thermostat, CH divertor valve or the wiring to them, but chief suspect is still the changes you have done. Have you drilled a cable or shorted one in fitting the new timer? Are you sure you've connected the new timer correctly?

If that's not it then it looks as if you need to go right back to basics and test it with a neon tester if you've nothing more sophisticated. You'll also need an understanding of the circuit and wiring plan. This is how I'd go about testing my system, but you might need to interpret and adjust to suit your plan. In disconnecting wires insulate then with tape temporarily and LABEL THEM!

1. If you unplug the timer does it blow the fuse? If so then problem in fuse/wiring to the timer. You have got this far.
2. Can you connect the timer to the mains but with the 'heating' and 'water' circuits disconnected? You might need to extend cables with wire and connector blocks, or even connevt it to a 13A plug (with care). Is it okay? Does the clock run? Does it have little lights or indicators which come on when the water/heating is demanded? Do the outputs switch (use the tester) when you expect them to? If not then you have a faulty timer.
3. Next connect the CH thermostat but with its output disconnected. Check the thermostat output with a neon tester (either on the device or in the wiring box). Does it light up only when the timer demands CH and the temperature is low?
4. If you have electric divertor valves, connect the CH one to the thermostat but disconnect its switched output. Does it activate (whirring noise) when you require heat? Does the output connection from it go live?

4, 5 repeat 2 & 3 but for cylinder thermostat. (assuming stored water cylinder). You seem to not have a problem here.

1. Now connect the pump to the divertor valve output, Does it pump if you demand heat?
2. Now connect boiler - does it work now?

Good luck. Phil

[John Rumm]

Long time no hear... welcome back!