That's wasn't my experience when I did a test post there on the "The poo-cleat interface" thread at 23:55 tonight - perhaps the problem is with you? Although when I tried to post through aioe.org - I had a message pop up to say that aioe posts were banned from that group.
Try avoiding posting abusive messages (as you are wont to do on some groups) - and that may end *your* probationary period!
A bigger engine should do the trick:
I think just getting a smaller single chaining is worth considering, as it's probably the simplest option. Although this will lower the top gear, the small reduction in top speed might not affect journey times much.
Regarding pedalling speed, the received wisdom in cycling used to be that "pushing" a high gear is bad for the knees and general fitness, and it's better to "spin" a lower gear. Not sure how much science there is behind that.
If you have only just started regular cycling, you might want to wait a few weeks before making any changes to the transmission, because the power output of the "engine" might rise substantially.
You're right, in normal use a properly trimmed derailleur won't touch the chain, and it should stay in place. But, with your relatively short chainstays, it is possible that using the low gear on the rear sprocket would drop the chain off the outer front ring without a front cage to hold it in place. In principle you shouldn't use that gear combination anyway, but stopping to move the chain by hand is still going to be a nuisance.
I see someone else has already suggested the (£500) Schlumpf, which would give you a wider range without needing a front derailleur.
The SRAM DualDrive which combines a 3-speed hub gear with a sprocket for rear derailleur is another possibility, though even the old 3x7 model will be wider than your 6 speed, never mind the later 3x9. Assuming you could find one.
Another option might be a "direct mount" front derailleur and someone with a machine shop who can make up something a bit like
The chain should generally stay on the ring where you put it without the aid of the shifter, otherwise it would forever be rattling against the shifter and making a terrible racket. However, you might find it occasionally jump rings, eg going over a bump.
That said, manually moving the chain is a dirty faff that I wouldn't bother.
Are you sure you can't replace the rear gears with a more widely spaced set? Or even squeeze in 7 or 8 gears at the back?
I was thinking in parallel as I know someone who fitted a Sturmey Archer
3 speed hub gear as well as the dérailleur to a bike.I had initially thought the electric power is applied to the rear wheel but the rear brake seems to be a small drum affair. I have no idea if this can be fitted to the Sturmey Archer hub.
Its a bit more affordable that the £150 quote and on par with a front double chain set but obviously building a new wheel would have to be factored in.
wow but not got that money.
fitness will folow but still big hills. it is a shame as i do not use the intermediate gears,
[...]
I'd seen the motor on the front hub and missed that it had a rear hub brake. (And it doesn't look as if fitting rim brakes would be any easier than fitting a front derailleur.)
You could probably work around that by doing the same sort of DIY conversion that Sheldon did for
But "sell the bike to someone who doesn't have hills, buy a better bike" is looking more and more like a sensible solution....
Failing that, try to upgrade the 6 speed cluster to a Shimano "MegaRange" one with an extra-low first gear:
decision made. mega gear on order. thanks guys.
Are you buying the rest of the 7 speed dérailleur required for this? The one currently on your bike is only suitable for a 6 speed.
FYI there is a 6-speed MegaRange available.
"Alan Braggins" wrote
That would be the 'proper' solution, a crank drive motor'd bike would be the thing to go for if you have hills, hub drives are really only usefull for city riding... unless you get a 'decent' powered one.. much over the 250 watt uk limit.
ahhh, that's the name of them, pretty much what i have on my mountain bike, big step from 2nd to 1st gear, tho' i'd use the 3 front gear rings to moderate the pedaling speed to suit the hill before having to change into
2nd.But an electric bike's motor is supposed to do what a tall 1st gear does, provide enough assistance to help you up a hill, so you pedal as if you were still on the flat, with the motor making up the rest, unfortunatly a lot of electric bikes don't manage that due to cheap batteries that can't provide the current, motor with low torque, thin wires between the battery, speed controller and motor and so on.
I did order the 6 speed version, around £16.00 from Amazon.
This bike is good at doing what you describe and in "normal" use is excellent for getting around.
My Wife ( who runs marathons) knocked 10 mins off her mountain bike time using this bike for the run to Penn from Amersham.
I am 18 stone and yes I can pedal up the hills on a mountain bike. Fit and fat. It is too much for 200 watts ( the limit) to pull that sort of weight up a 1in4 hill. The problem I had is that to get the thing moving on the hill was more than I could push in that gear. The motor is only supposed to assist. I do a 10 mile ride each way and the battery is ok for approx 30 miles around town,( I cannot charge it at work) it is not expected to pull a great lump on its own up over 2 miles of 1-4 hills as well as the other small hills on the route. The journey is from Amersham on the Hill via Hazlemere to Cressex in High Wycombe. The hills on this are steep and long. I am doing this before and after a 10 hour working day. My best time is 1hour and 20 mins the 20 mins being at the end of the ride to work and the beginning of the ride home . That is a lousy average speed. The Hill leaving Hazlemere is nasty also. Hopefully this will enable me to get a flow going and then I can get fitter and the whole thing will be easier for me. I will also point out the weather is no friend as I start work around 14.30 and finish around midnight. The clothing has to be carried and the temperature range is mid day sun to midnight frost. It is a challenge.
Thanks for the help. I was getting confused.
I used to cycle a lot in that area, it's among the hilliest areas in SE England. Those hills are great fun once you've developed a good power-to-weight ratio, but a bit of a trial until then.
You've probably already done this, but have you looked for longer routes that avoid the steepest gradients? Not easy in that area I know. I have to do this when riding my 3-speed Brompton bike, which is not really suitable for 1-in-4 gradients, regardless of rider fitness.
see if you can persuade the council to install one of these on the hills:
Love the lift. I wont bother trying to petition for one, we are lucky if we get the cycle paths cleared in this area.
Project of the week: Convert a sawdust burner to a jet engine for mounting on a bicycle.
Just hope you appreciate the difference between a freewheel and freehub and you haven't inadvertently ended up with something that won't fit your wheel.
You are lucky to have cycle paths in the first place.
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