Best way to insulate single brick wall.

On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 14:13:01 +0100, a particular chimpanzee named Rob Morley randomly hit the keyboard and produced:

Internal.

Reply to
Hugo Nebula
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The message from "Mike" contains these words:

How did you insulate your external walls?

Reply to
Roger

The message from Hugo Nebula contains these words:

So when is a barn not a barn? I have a barn attached to my house which I use as a garage and d-i-y workshop. Judging by my Council Tax it isn't an agricultural building.

Reply to
Roger

It rather depends on the original use of that attached part of the building. If it is/was agricultural then this overrides whether it is attached to the main house or not - or at least that's how my local authority sees it.

Reply to
Mike

That's an interesting and useful guideline.

Could you possibly let us know where it is defined ?

Many thanks

Reply to
Mike

A 60mm timber stud mounted about 1" from the wall (varies rather as wall is random stone) filled with 60mm Kingspan between the timbers then plasterboarded. All the cavities are ventilated to the outside (upstairs to the eaves, downstairs through new or existing air vents roughly every 2 metres) so the stone doesn't contribute that much to the insulation, not that it did before - U value of a stone wall is only slightly better than steel anyway - but at least it holds the roof and joists up and keeps the rain off the insulation.

Reply to
Mike

L1 Approved Document para 1.13

Reply to
Tony Bryer

On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 22:33:46 +0100, a particular chimpanzee named "Mike" randomly hit the keyboard and produced:

Which is what the bit "ancillary to" means. If the attached building is used in conjunction with the dwelling (such as a garage or workshop), then it counts as part of the dwelling and any alteration to form it into part of the habitable accommodation isn't a "change of use" under the Building Regulations. If the building was a separate use (agriculture, commercial), then any change to make it into a dwelling _is_ a "material change of use".

Other Regulations (Planning, Rating) may have different criteria.

Reply to
Hugo Nebula

That sounds like good news. We expect to have a 'tandem garage' i.e. single width, double length. The garage is integral with the house.

The rear part looks promising for conversion to living accomodation. The roof has to come off anyway (corrugated asbestos cement).

If all goes well I will be boring you all with progress and pleas for advice in a couple of months :-)

Cheers Dave R

Reply to
David W.E. Roberts

The message from "Mike" contains these words:

Thanks.

Don't think I can afford to lose 9" off the width of my rooms and there are several instances of doorways or the stairs with one side flush with the outside wall where almost no build-up is possible.

Reply to
Roger

Best insulation is achieved by thickness of trapped air - either in plastic foam or rockwool.

Uou an make foo with thinner foam pbacked plasterboard glued r screwqed to teh wall, but its not as good as 4" of rockowool or celotex in a stud wall.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

No, but it allows some moisture percolation out of the wall if needed.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Wonder when aerogel blocks will be available. Promising, especially for windows.

Reply to
Ian Stirling

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