Hi,
looking at the best way to convert a garage into living accommodation.
One way suggested is to add a stud wall with solid insulation between studs, then cover with plasterboard.
This will be quite thick.
Is there a thinner way to do this, e.g. rendered thermal blocks?
TIA
Dave R
It will not have much insulation though. You have to apply about 3 coast of sythaproof to the floor to about a foot up the wall, to prevent damp from getting in.
The thicker the better in terms of insulation. There is AIUI, a minimum standard, which you have to hit.
I'm about to do the same thing myself as it happens. In consultation with the BCO, what I'm going to do is erect a framework of 3X2 timber,
1" away from the brick wall. The gaps between the timbers will be filled with 2" Kingspan insulation, maintaining the airgap between that and the bricks. Finally, standard plasterboard on the internal wall (can't recall what thickness I've been told to use). Sounds pretty much what you're suggesting? It adds about 4.5" to the thickness of the wall.That won't give the U values required for a new build, but for converting an older property the BCO is happy with it.
David
The best thing is to discuss your plans with the BCO. You will need his approval. A friend has just done this and he had to raise the floor by about six inches and build another wall to make the single one a cavity wall with lots of extra insulation. Not an easy task to meet the insulation rules. Having done it I must say in is incredibly snug!
Peter Crosland
Does 2" Kingspan with a 1" gap provide more insulation than 3" Kingspan abutting the wall?
-- Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines
No but by keeping the timber 25mm clear of the brick and having a
50mm airspace you should avoid any damp problems.Sounds like a sensible BCO who has remembered that Reg L1 itself does not saying anything about U-values, just that you must take reasonable steps to ensure the conservation of fuel and power.
That's the usual way.
For converting a garage to accommodation you are supposed to meet the regs so he'll need 60mm of Kingspan. But the airgap can be pretty small is the wall is truly vertical - all you are trying to do is vent any vapour buildup. Almost 10mm can be gained by plasterskimming the Kingspan rather than using plasterboard - there is a special version available for this though nobody stocks it so you have to order it in though.
I presume you mean Statutory Instrument part L1.
The approved documents part L1 offer ways of meeting this requirement and do mention U values unless you use the carbon index method.
In any case the proposed new part L is expected to close most of the getout clauses and the improvement methods, be it n% of house improvements or bringing property up to spec on sale, combined with selected demolition of worse case properties, will eventually bring our housing stock up to a sensible level of energy efficiency.
My own scenario is conversion of an partly-attached outhouse to accomodation, and to my relief the BCO has taken a common-sense approach and didn't insist on full compliance. I don't think we know whether DWER's garage is built-in or detached, but especially if it's built-in I would be very surprised if modern insulation regs would be applicable.
David
Not to mention 400m of insulation to the walls.
I think you've been quite lucky. That sounds as near to a barn conversion as one can get without being one and there is a ruling from the ODPM that these must meet the regs, even if they are listed. This has had a severe effect on the market for such conversions and there are several round here 'in limbo' as they've had planning permission granted but can't meet the building regs without altering the appearance of the building whereupon the conservation officer says no.
That said, I've just brought an old farmhouse up to exceed the requirements for a modern build and generally found that once you do have to add insulation anywhere (which for an old building is everywhere !) the cost of meeting the regs isn't generally that much extra provided you plan it well from the start.
Well you might grin if you saw my 'barn conversion' - the outhouse concerned is little more than outside-loo size and will add about 5 sqm to the house!
David
But as has been said some BCOs are sensible, some aren't.
Also remember that many conservatories are about that size and these have been causing concern at the ODPM - they are generally exempt yet people have started using them all year round and pour heat through the glass roof. Expect to see rules covering this at some time in the future.
On Fri, 17 Jun 2005 18:36:51 +0100, a particular chimpanzee named David WE Roberts randomly hit the keyboard and produced:
The stud & Celotex will add about 50-70mm to the wall. With blocks, you'll need a 65-70mm cavity containing at least 30mm Celotex, then
100mm thick blocks, plus your internal finish (plaster).On Fri, 17 Jun 2005 20:49:05 +0100, a particular chimpanzee named "Mike" randomly hit the keyboard and produced:
A barn conversion _is_ different, as it is a change of use as defined within the Building Regulations. A conversion of a building attached to (and ancillary to) a dwelling isn't.
On Fri, 17 Jun 2005 19:54:16 GMT, a particular chimpanzee named Lobster randomly hit the keyboard and produced:
If it's less than 6m², then it only has to be insulated to the standard of the existing dwelling.
Is that internal or external area?
I forgot that. Well spotted.
Nope.
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