Says it all really. Need to attach some batten to plasterboard, have no way to get to a stud or noggin..gotta be glued.
What's best? I will need to screw onto it, but apart from that it won't be taking all that much stress.
Erm! PVA as basically is wood glue.
I am concerned about being able to clamp it up tight enough to get a good bond...hoping for something a bit more gap filling..?
Still an aliphatic wood glue might be good, also a low foam polyurethane type..
Is plugging and screwing not an option? If not a 'No More Nails' type of adhesive will work if the plasterboard isn't painted etc. Bear in mind it will make a mess of the board if you ever want/need to remove it!
HTH
John
Get some of those snail fixings; drill through the wood and the p/bd (you need to have it supported or held in situ) remove wood and fit fixing gently.
The screws that come with the fixings might be too short you can use longer ones but they must be of the same gauge. Put an adhesive pava or mastic on the timber and offer into position.
Insert screws and tighten. Do not overtighten or the snail fixings will pull out.
There are any number of varieties of plasterboard fixings all more or less the same general idea. These are the simplest.
Use a mastic adhesive if the timber is rough sawn, if it is a planed edge, you can get away with pva. For the price of a mastic gun and a tube of gripfill I'd use that. YMMV.
Watch out that you don't damage the backs of your handypops.
Possibly in one or two places...but I have NEVER found that to make a secure joint sadly
Yes. I will try no more nails...I think
Can't get a drill there for most of the length sadly.
Its all behind a radiator, and I don't have time to drain down CH, remove rad, do the job and put back...and its too frigging cold as well.
Don't forget the weakest bit will probably be the paper cover on the plasterboard. You don't need a glue any stronger than this.
If you want to be able to remove it easily then a double sided sticky foam tape would be easy.
Plasterboard has been skimmed, but not painted.
I won't need any actual pull strength - just in shear - and the paper is more than strong enough in that mode.
Ive had mixed results with 'no more nails' frankly.
CA (superglue) works if the gap is thin enough..
For gluing surfaces that absorb water, I've found water based no-nails to be far better than the organic solvent based variety. This is one of my favourites:
B&Q :-)
Have you tried the cheaper brands? They seem OK to me (though I tend to use them by the bucketfull as filler as well as adhesive).
Yes, I bought some of screwfix own brand water based before, and it was OK. It's been discontinued and replaced with:
You don't need to - just close the valves, slacken the valve-to-rad couplings, tip the rad out and lie it down then retighten the couplings.
TRV mate. No chance to actually close it off completelly.
I hate that they are forever doing that with their glue/sealant/mastic cartridges. Frequently I've bought a particular type which I've got on well with; go back to re-order and bang! it's gone.
David
talking about
How long have you been posting on here you stupid tosser?
Why didn't you say that you were trying to get it to stick to a wall down behind a radiator.
I don't know. And more important, neither do you.
Worra clot!
I REALLY do not think there is any need to resort to a posting like that! That is not helpful to anybody, especially the OP you "stupid tosser".
Cheers
JOhn
talking about
Oh dear. Someone kicked your c*ck through your cranium today? Or are you always this amiable?
Oh..I don't mind. I've been on Usenet since before the ruddy Internet. Let him get it off his chest. Probably saved him beating his wife or summat.
Car body filler ;)
cheers, Pete.
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