Best clear varnish for newly sanded floorboards

[jgkgolf]

I finally managed to sand the original floorboards in our dining room this weekend and they do look very, very well. I would like to keep the colour as it is so want to apply a clear varnish (we have a little boy so need a tough finish). We have pine doors and a pine fireplace which have been stripped and which I will probably wax so I'd prefer a non gloss finish if possible. I'm thinking of Ronseal Diamond hard clear floor varnish or Perfect Finish Diamond Hard Floor Clear Varnish, (not sure what's the difference?) as they have been recommended on this site. It comes in gloss and satin finish, is satin a more matt finish than gloss or is it more yellow because the one thing I don't want is something which gives that horrible yellow orange colour.

I'm not too worried about cost, after putting so much effort into it , I want to finish it properly. I'm not worried about re-coat time either as I'll probbaly just do a coat every evening or every other evening.

I know Rustins do a product which has been recommended but gives off quite a lot of fumes. I won't be allowed use anything like that with a small child in the house.

Is it best to use a brush . pad, roller or rag or does it not matter?

Any advice greatly appreciated?

[Andy]

and i thought uk laws were strict, which country are you in?

[Owain]

I think that's probably an edict issued by the I/C Domestic.

Owain

[Jason]

I'll leave the varnish experts to make recommendations on brand, but what I will add is this:

If you have sanded the floor, then you have sanded off the very compacted, hard top surface. The wood underneath will be quite soft, and will dent easily as you move furniture around. It may also crack any varnish coating you use.

So, whatever goes on first, has to be very thin and be able to penetrate the wood to make it really tough. I've made the mistake of not watering down (with whatever solvent) the first few coats sufficiently, and the floor looks terrible quite quickly as the soft wood gives way to constant use.

-- JJ

[The Medway Handyman]

Bourneseal.

Resinous seal which soaks into the wood instead of forming a coating on top. Easy to patch up high traffic areas. Only disadvantage is the drying time 12 -16 hours.

[jgkgolf]

Bourneseal.http://www.duluxdecoratorcentre.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/DDCUK/ICIPain...>> Oleo Resinous seal which soaks into the wood instead of forming a coating on

Dave, Do you mean to use just this , or use this to seal the wood and then put varnish on top?

[The Medway Handyman]

Bourneseal.http://www.duluxdecoratorcentre.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/DDCUK/ICIPain...>>>> Oleo Resinous seal which soaks into the wood instead of forming a

Technically either, oleao res will stand a lot of traffic on its own. Top it with a water based acrylic polish if you want.

Varnish forms a surface coating on top of the wood, oleo res soaks into the wood.

IME oleo res on it's own is more than adequate for domestic traffic. I'd use two coats and leave it at that.

[jgkgolf]

I know it's a clear gloss but does it cause any discolouration of the wood, ie yellowing etc? I presume it doesn't give off any fumes etc being resin based?

[robgraham]

Bourneseal.http://www.duluxdecoratorcentre.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/DDCUK/ICIPain...>> >> Oleo Resinous seal which soaks into the wood instead of forming a

I don't have any experience of the material Dave is talking about but I would certainly support anything that **doesn't** form a hard skin. You do have to remember that pine is a soft wood and takes up moisture very easily regardless of what finish is on the top so that the wood will move throughout the year - a hard finish will therefore have the potential to be weakened by this movement. Hard wood floors are less susceptible to this. I also do like the idea of being able to repairs to heavy use areas.

Rob

[jgkgolf]

I suppose that does make sense though these floorboards are over a 100 years old so they are quite well seasoned. Does that make them any harder?

[Stuart Noble]

The 2 pack product in question blows your head off with fumes, but only for a couple of hours. After that you can't smell anything, plus you can walk on it

[Stuart Noble]

What makes sense? The boards will be softer. This is the smelly stuff

you apply it. Bear in mind that it is genuinely clear so will highlight any difference of shade in the wood. Might be better to harmonise the colour with a very pale stain first. I use vandyke crystals. Horrible job, but soon over!

[TonyK]

I'd use Dulux Diamond Glaze, its more of a laquer than a varnish, quite low build. But, its water based so no fumes as such, just a bit of a smell. Plus when it's dried (which it does quite quickly) it is as hard as nails. And, no colour to it at all. I used this on nearly a whole house with 2 kids and a dog. Not cheap but has lasted well and to-date virtually indestructable.

[The Medway Handyman]

Given that all treatments will silightly change the appearance, not especially. It has a horrible smell while it dries! The only drawback is the drying time - 16 ish hours.

[The Medway Handyman]

Oleo res is often used in school halls because it soaks in - stopping any splinters - handy to keep little bottoms safe when Miss syas "sit down everyone".

[chris French]

In message , robgraham writes

Charles (Joe) Stahelin, who used to be regular poster here, and IIRC, had experience with maintain wooden institutional floors used to recommend Bourneseal a lot.