The wife did the same thing to our 5hp B & S mower a couple of years ago, I
was quoted around £75 for a new crank !
I stripped the engine down and the workshop where I work tried straightening
it but it was too far gone.
I then happened to be down our tip (do I mean recycling centre ?) and
spotted an old mower with a same series engine, got it for a fiver.
This engine was far more worn than mine, the crank bearings where scoured
but I swapped the crank over and its still running fine now.
Briggs and Strattons generally very sturdy and take abuse and
even modification well!
Our current 3.5 HP about ten/twelve years old now (little
bowlegged due to being left under several feet of snow a few
years back) works fine.
A previous B&S (about 25 years ago) required the seized piston to
be driven out with a hammer and large punch. We fitted a used
piston and it lasted another few years with two hubs piggybacked
on the bottom of the engine shaft to get the blade low enough to
cut grass; until the steel 'pan/deck' of the mower rusted away
(that was the second deck on that mower and it was not dished as
low as the original) hence the two hubs!
If/when our current mower expires I'll probably just replace it.
The price of brand new 3.5 HP absolutely 'bog standard' (no extra
features whatsoever and thereby fewer parts to maintain) has
increased gradually over the past 10 to 15 years.
Our current one cost $129.99 plus approx. 16% sales tax ten years
ago. A few years ago they were around $149 to $169, plus tax.
The best price (not on sale but just regular retail) at beginning
of this summer was $199.00 plus 15% sales tax.
129.99 + 16% = $151 Approx. 67 UK pounds. Circa 1990-93.
149.99 + 15% = $173 Approx. 75 UK pounds. Circa 1996
169.99 + 15% = $196 Approx. 85 UK pounds. Circa 1999
199.99 + 15% = %230 Approx. 100 UK pounds. 2003 (Was either
Canadian Tire or Home Hardware.)
Some companies now use Tecumseh engines but prices are pretty
well identical to B&S models.
Oh. And by the way. Important.
USE STEEL REINFORCED SAFETY FOOT WEAR WHEN MOWING. One individual
who later worked for me (in an office capacity!) lost two and a
half toes while wearing rubber 'gum boots'/Wellingtons.
There are scars on my steel toed/shank work boats to prove they
have saved me at least once!
I think I was quoted around £130 for a B&S 3.5bhp motor a year or tow ago..
When I bought my mower, I bouhght it together with my next door
neighbour - and Irishman of considerable humour.
HE claimed that in Belfast, the hospitals have an urban legend about
someone who came in minus all his finger tips.
He had apparenttly decided to pick the mower up by the baseplate and use
it as a hedge trimmer :-)
Just the motor or complete mower?
Prices I listed were for a mower; usually the bottom of the line
model has a red base with a black engine. You buy it, stick in
the vehicle, bring it home, read the instructions add/check the
oil, put in gas (petrol) and away you go.
For the last few years it has been mandatory for manufacturers to
provide them with the safety shut off when you release the
Recently I fixed one for a friend that had hit a rock/stone which
had bent the grass guide underneath so badly it was mangled and
bent. The blade had come up solid and jammed against it. I feared
the worst for the engine!
Used a cold chisel to cut out the spot welds that held the curved
metal grass guide and threw it away. Mower works fine.
Motor bare. The Hayterette (old cast chassis version) is still going
strong after 18 years, and a replacement would cost over 500 squids.
Its the best rough corner cutter I have come across, and I am loath to
replace it wioth somethig plasticky and cheap.
It is NOT the No 1 mower, tho. I use it for the edges of teh garden and
Hmm. The No 1 mower is held together by prayers and bits of bent tin.
Its a westwood ride on. Its alarmingly badly made, apart ftom its B & S
engine, which has never missed a beat.
I've worked in the garden machinery industry for quite a number of
years and have done crank shaft straightening on numerous occassions.
You won't do it in situte, the engine has to come off and is bolted
into a jig and then the crank is pushed back straight by tightenig
bolts against it. It requires some nerve as it takes an awefull lot of
pressure and it is possible to break the sump or crank case casting if
you are not carefull. Most mower shops will just want to sell you a
new mower, engine or crank so you may have to hunt around untill you
find a 'good one' that can do it for you.
Hope that helps, BashTin
On Sat, 12 Jul 2003 15:19:57 +0100 (BST), Dave Liquorice wrote:
Engine since taken to village garage and the flywheel removed(*).
Trouble is the bottom sump casting has a long tube (2") that is only
just clearance on the shaft. Needless to say the shaft is far to bent
to pass through this tube. B-(
If I cut the end off the crankshaft I can get it out but then *will*
require a new crankshaft... grrr.
(*) I don't have a 23mm socket for the nut and even if I had the holes
that are supposed to accept the bolts for a puller hadn't been tapped
out. Garage of course had a puller big enough to go over the outside,
even then it was damn tight and need persuasion from an airline hammer
to break the joint to get it off.
Dave. pam is missing e-mail
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