beech wood work toips from Habitat

[leighbobs]

Hello

I just bought a Habitat Beechwood counter top kitchen and I'm a bit worried about the work surface.

They told me to put Parafin Oil on it, which I have been doing but I get the feeling it needs something else a bit more substantial...or am I just being paranoid about my new kitchen?

Love the wood feeling and like the idea of it aging gracefully but want to protect it too. Any clues greatfully received.

Leigh

[Stuart Noble]

Bear in mind that mineral oils don't dry, ever. Vaseline is a thicker version but, again, it doesn't dry. Linseed oil does (eventually), and would be a better choice if you don't mind applying it sparingly every few weeks to build up the finish.

[Andy Dingley]

And provided that you're happy with that, that's no bad thing. If you keep applying it, it keeps looking good.

I'd never use linseed for this - it yellows too much. If you want a film-forming oil finish (and no reason why you shouldn't) then spend a trifling sum more and buy a ready mixed "finishing oil" (Liberon, Rustins or someone reliable). This will be thinned and dried tung oil. It's easier to apply and won't have changed colour anything like as much in 6 months time.

You do need to be sparing in application though. Splash it on generously, slop it around a bit, but then 10-20 minutes later scrub the hell out of it with cloth or paper kitchen roll. Don't leave any "wet" oil behind for more than half an hour, or you'll get a sticky patch that's a pain to shift.

[leighbobs]

Thanks for that...I'vde since been scouring the net and discovered Rustin's Danish Oil which seems quite a favourite...I'm on the hunt to track some down...

Leigh

Andy D>

[Andy Dingley]

I'm not a great fan of it myself. "Danish oil" is an oil and varnish mixture, so it forms a film but it's more varnish-like than a pure oil. I use it in the workshop for hammer handles, but I don't think it looks smooth enough for "indoor" work.

Axminster is convenient.