Basic electrical question

Works very well - ideal for cutting a floorboard across the middle of a joist without risk of hitting a pipe. You don't need to even make a hole to start it - you start with the blade horizontal and just lower it into the board.

Reply to
Dave Plowman
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In message , Dave Plowman writes

Yep, i used to use a circular saw , but now use this technique with a Jigsaw. You have a bit more control than with the circular saw.

Reply to
chris French

Is it reasonable to assume that this jig will accept other types of router? I have a Trend T9 for on-site work and I'm assuming that the jig would work fine with that.

PoP

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Reply to
PoP

Also, if lifting floorboards which are to be covered afterwards, you can cut round the original nails, which you can't really do with an circular saw. Of course if ripping T&G, a straight line might be more useful. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman

Yes it would. When I got mine, which was some time ago, I hadn't yet bought a 1/2" router.

There's some merit in using a smaller router as you can get into slightly tighter spaces.

There are four combinations of Routabout defined by the cutter. This is 1/4" or 1/2" and 18mm or 22mm depth.

If you are sure you are always going to use the 1/2" router, then it probably makes sense to get the 1/2" cutter rather than swap the collet..

One thing I am not certain about is the effect of just having the 22mm cutter if you then want to cut into 18mm floors. I have 22mm floors and cutter so it didn't arise. I am pretty sure that the only effect of cutting an 18mm floor with a 22mm cutter would be to go a few mm into a joist if you happened to be over one, however it's possible that the rebate on the centre disc might be wrong, causing it to end up sitting proud of or below the surround floor. If you can wait until the weekend, I can get the jig out and check it on an 18mm board, or you might want to call Trend and ask. Obviously you can buy a second cutter for the other depth but they're about £27.

Another point I forgot to mention is that it is possible to remove the ring after installation, so the access hole can be a touch larger than implied by the ring size.

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

Except in junction boxes?

Reply to
R W

Well, only ones behind walls with new tiles. .andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

Heh heh. I've come across poorly crimped cables, so it's not a universal panacea. Perhaps some form of locking screw - or a double screw JB would be more reliable?

Reply to
Dave Plowman

Don't believe you IMM has several loose ones.....don't he?. ATB Kris

Reply to
Kris

Err, yes I suppose so. However I assume it isn't so much an issue because there's nothing much to hold tight.

PoP

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Reply to
PoP

He could just lie a junction box under the floorboards of the floor above and make sure that there's a screw-down panel which can be removed for access.

J.B.

Reply to
Jerry Built

Details here:-

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a feeling in a previous discussion on this subject someone mentioned a cheaper source of insert rings... quick google should turn it up)

Reply to
John Rumm

I notice in the catalogue the other day that Screwfix do something to do a similar job, but it basically a hole saw that firs into a drill.

Instead of using the chipboard to plug the hole it uses a plastic plug.

Reply to
chris French

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