I'm installing a kitchen in a couple of weeks time and have a question.
I have to move my heater/water controller from one wall to another it has 8 wires. As I'm going to need more wire to move the box is it okay to isolate the cable in a junction box in the ceiling void and then join the new cable in this box?
I'd thought it to be no problem but thought I'd ask first.
If it is going to be inaccessible (as this will be) then the joints need to be crimp types and not screw terminals (as in chocolate block)
.andy
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when everything is put back. you will know the joint is there in the ceiling void, but the next person who buys your house wont. bear in mind that you could end up in a house where someone else had done this, imagine how pissed off you'd be if there was a loose connection and you couldn't find it. rob
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And anyway, you can guarantee that if you did box in a junctions box it would get a loose connection.
As someone else said, you need to put in crimped connections (though if possible I'd replace the whole cable)
So long as the JB is accesable for future inspection,then yes go ahead making sure of good workmanship and mechanically sound connections. Also advisble to insulation test the circuit after the described works are carried out.
Jon.
Would the same prinicple apply to cables e.g. cooker and kitchen sockets?
My problem is that I have a Barrets home, and so the floorboards are made of chipboard and the've used 6" nails to secure the boards down. It has been impossible to lift the board for the sockets without breaking it, if I've got to replace the whole cable that's a lot of destructive work. Plan B is to use a router to cut around the nails and replace with screws.
Any giudance appreciated.
I've never had a screw connection come loose in all the years I've been DIYing electrics. Seen it many times on 'pro' installations, though - I'd say it's one of the main causes of faults. Perhaps 'pro' sparks are rather limp wristed?
Trouble with chipboard flooring is the edges are T&G joined, so even if it's screwed down it usually breaks when lifting - unless you lift the entire floor.
To be honest Dave I got out the circular saw and cut down through the T&G, did a great job expcept that on the first cut the depth plate slipped and I cut a 1" slot in the ceiling joist. Can't see it being a problem as it's a
20cm deep joist, however, will make good using 'sister' pieces and bolts.I'll replace the old c.board with new and screw them down not nail gun it.
However, I don't understand why they had to use such long nails when the upstairs hallway boards are screwed down. I've got to go through at least another 2 boards yet.
Whadya think of the router option to cut the board away from the nails?
Oh dear. ;-) I tend to use a jigsaw for this sort of thing, with a blade snapped off to the maximum depth of cut I need. Slower than a circular saw, though.
Absolutely. Screws don't come loose.
I'd say they'd run out of the proper fixings. Work *must* go on...
Personally, I'd cut traps rather than lifting whole sections, since boards without the tongue and groove will move rather too much where they're not supported. You can batten round the traps and get a good fixing to that. But the main thing which ever way is to get a good rigid floor with no creaks.
I've seen a gizzmo for a router somewhere in a catalogue or on the web (Screwfix? tlc? but I can't find it now) which is designed to cuts out a neat stepped hole about 4" diameter in a chipboard floor, and also prepares a matching plug for the hole, so when you've finished mucking about beneath the floor you can readily fill the hole with a neat, removable, flush-fitting hatch. Was reasonably expensive IIRC, but I'd buy one like a shot if I had a lot of these to do.
Maybe someone here knows what I'm on about?
David
It's a Trend router accessory, people who have it says it's good. What puts me off is the price of the plastic inserts you need to make the hole in the floor into a neat trap-door.
I'd like to invite you to our site to put forward this interesting theory. Oh, and what flowers would you like in hospital? Richard. ps. written with tongue FIRMLY in cheek. (MY tongue / MY cheek before anyone goes for the easy shot)
As reported on this forum recently, our very own Andy Hall has one of these and advises that it's something worth having in your toolbag.
I'm building up to SWMBO buying me one as a surprise present. It'll be a surprise for her :)
PoP
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Indeed.
The Trend Routabout. I have one that I use with one of their small T5 routers and it does do a very good job. The hatches are neat and don't rock, and the job is fast.
Some web sites have the inserts shown as a unit of one for £25-30. In fact this is for a pack of ten so they are not that bad.
OK, to some extent this is razor blade marketing, but £2.50 a hole doesn't seem completely outrageous to me.
.andy
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... contortionists as well then :-)
.andy
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This sounds a bit dangerous actually!
Why not get one of these, it's on my soon to be bought list!
And possibly for two reasons.
The first is that if you are selling services to others then £2.50 for a neat hole that is created in say 10 minutes is a whole lot better than 2 hours at premium labour rates doing it another way.
Secondly, if you are doing this in your own home, just how many of these holes will be required?
PoP
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It's not even that. There isn't even the issue of setting the cutter depth accurately because there is a ball bearing stop at the top.
It's literally a case of fitting the guide bush to the router base, cutter in the router. Then the trammel screws to the floor with a wood screw but free to rotate.
With my T5 router and chipboard, it will do the job in four passes comfortably. This leaves a disk of material. You insert the ring in the hole, invert the disc and you're done.
Exactly. IIRC, the original product came with three rings and I bought another pack of ten. I still have a few left.
.andy
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