Banister restoration

Hi there,

We are currently attempting to restore the banisters in our 1920/30's house, this is currently how they look, there used to be white gloss paint which has been stripped off and the wood is now being sanded...

formatting link
are after a light oak finish and were wondering what other work is needed to achieve a nice uniform finish all over?

Cheers

-- David

Reply to
gremlin_95
Loading thread data ...

Mostly stripped off, quite a lot left in inside corners etc. I guess it depends if you want the "stripped look" or want just wood.

No spindles, or other barrier, between the banister and string either. As it stands it won't pass building regs for stairs. I wouldn't be happy using such a staircase and if there are ever any children about far to easy for them to fall through the gap.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

I did something similar many years ago. Once you've done a LOT more stripping and taken-off those nasty square newel caps, have a look here:

formatting link
It's easy to add spindles if you use their moulded channel (can't remember what it's called); you also need round newel caps. I used Hemlock (which I think is what your current newel posts might be), stained everything with Oak stain and then used Danish oil. It's about 15 years since I did it and it needs re-oiling, but it still looks great.

Dave

Reply to
Nospam

With that gap, pretty much unsaleable to anyone with children.

It's a real ****** making stripped woodwork look like anything other that stripped woodwork.

Unless you're going for shabby chic, you need to make it look like new wood (no paint, no marks, no scratches, no filler), or paint it. Sorry. I speak from bitter experience!

Cheers, David.

Reply to
David Robinson

...snip...

What did you use to strip the old paint off? Looks like a nice finish and I would love to do the same but there's a lot of old paint!

Paul DS

Reply to
Paul D Smith

Our house is very similar to that, and has no bannister at all on the open side of the stairs. We do have a rail on the wall though.

We bought the house like that, and said we would have to sort it before we had kids.

Money was tight, and other things took priority.

One is now 11, the other just turned 8. They seem to have survived.

Darren

Reply to
D.M.Chapman

Just to clear things up, there are usually spindles in place but because work is being done on, they have been temporarily removed.

Sorry I couldn't get on yesterday because Thunderbird was coming up with an error.

Reply to
gremlin_95

Hi there,

It is my mum doing the work, she used a hot air gun, scraper, Nitro Mors on stubborn areas and 80 grit aluminium oxide.

Reply to
gremlin_95

All I've been told is, the finish that is needed is 'light oak'

After more sanding can some sort of stain be utilised?

Reply to
gremlin_95

See my earlier reply

Reply to
Nospam

Sometimes, making something obviously dangerous is more effective than making it apparently safe.

Colin Bignell

Reply to
Nightjar

Thanks, I did see your reply earlier but forgot to reply, sorry.

What sort of oak stain did you use?

Would this be okay:

formatting link
it would be a bit more heard wearing if its for outdoor use...

Reply to
gremlin_95

formatting link
>> Presumably it would be a bit more heard wearing if its for outdoor use... >

I think I used Colron or Blackfriar (test on a hidden area) but you'll need to get ALL the old paint off first.

Reply to
Nospam

formatting link

Okay thanks for the help

Reply to
gremlin_95

Well worth bleaching with a pukka 2 part woodworking bleach. I've never known a timber that wasn't improved by what is a fairly quick and simple process

Reply to
stuart noble

Thanks

Reply to
gremlin_95

Sorry to trouble you again, but where can this 2 part woodworking bleach be purchased from?

Reply to
gremlin_95

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.