Connecting a cooker is a portable appliance and not covered by part P, in the same way that a gas cooker with a flexible hose and bayonet connector doesn't need a gas engineer.
I would also agree with DP's comment.
The picture isn't very clear, but I would make sure the insulation was closer to the screws and a bit of sleeving on the earth wouldn't go amiss.
Peter
I imagine Maria has it sorted and cooked four Christmas dinners in it by now!
A kitchen is no longer defined as a "special location" for part-P purposes (unless it has a bath or swimming pool in it!)
I'd quite agree you could well need a specialist and therefore properly qualified person for installing swimming pool electrics.
But every house has a bathroom and kitchen so legislation which attempts to restrict these to a so called pro is just arrant nonsense. Typical of pulling the wool over the eyes of some civil servant who wouldn't know a
13 amp plug from a sink one.
Three points:
1) Kitchens are no longer "special locations" in the latest part P 2) Even when there were, a like for like replacement would have been a minor work anyway, so swapping one free standing cooker for another would have been fine. 3) Does anyway care anyway?
Bit late don't you think? You are replying to a post from 2011!
The manuals for cookers usually only specify 1.5mm^2 for three phase supplies. Even allowing for diversity, the 16A rating of 1.5mm^2 butyl flex is a tad on the low side.
In reality there are loads of free standing cookers out there with a connection made in 4 or 6mm^2 T&E cable (usually because most electrical wholesalers don't stock butyl in anything over 2.5mm^2!). Bad things don't happen.
And yet probably more the cookers and fitted ovens in the country have
6242Y supplying them :)Whilst it may be technically correct, I suspect it's not actually an urgent issue - does the cable even get to 70C in that location?
..Yes the bare earth cable is sleeved wherever a connection
Yes, the CPC should be sleeved there.
....3 core and earth cable ...Not making the correct
Do we have a reason to believe the terminals are not tight?
A kitchen is not a "special location" nor is it included as Part P notifiable works (since 6 April 2013 I think).
than half of ^^
Everyone is an expert No such thing as diversity anymore This is not a free standing cooker This is a fan assisted oven A free standing cooker Will need at least 6mm2 cable The Z0 B35301 is rated at 2.48 kw So that's 10.7 Amps 3 core 1.5 mm2 butyl is adequate However 2.5 mm2 T&E is not butyl not heat resistant Ok so the post is old However I found it So someone might also find it One who is not Qualified Who does not know the correct cable etc Isn't my advice worth it ? To many people out there think they know how to do things .... Too many people can make things work . However can they make it work and be safe and adhere to our strict 17th edition regulations only fully qualified Electricians who have passed the new 17th edition course can put their hand on their heart and say " All my work adheres to the 17th edition regulations 2 Any sparks here want to put their hands up ? Or is this forum just this for the intrepid amatuer ? All I'm doing is putting up advice and showing glaring errors that intrepid amateurs can make ....
Well, I hold an EAL Level II Domestic Installers certificate and we have a resident electrician too plus a number of engineers of various disciplines. So whilst most of us are amateurs in the strict sense, we're not ill informed.
I have seen with my own eyes both free standing cookers and fitted ovens with T+E into them - all fitted by professionals. I have also seen all manner of bodgery left in the wake of professionals - grommets not fitted correctly in backboxes, sockets left lying around under kitchen cabinets unfixed, FCUs not screwed on (behind fitted appliance) - oh and having the fuse in an inaccessible location behind the same appliance.
If it were me I'd agree with you and I would use butyl or HO7 for the bigger sizes - but the questions stands: is that connector and surrounding area really likely to get to 70C which the PVC cable is rated to? HO7 only takes you up another 15C at best as does butyl.
Would you care to explain:
"No such thing as diversity anymore" as it's news to me...
Perhaps our champion would care to explain what training he has undertaken and more particularly which qualifications/successful assessments he has under his belt to claim the title of professionally qualified 17th edition electrician?
in something perhaps.
Care to explain?
Bit hard to tell; Unless I have missed something, the OP said "new cooker" without qualification.
What makes you say that?
Single or double?
That would depend on the cooker and the circumstance. Its a bit rash making assumptions without knowing the details.
IME, most 1.5mm^2 Butyl flexes are rated at 15 or 16A
E.g.
However, adequate for what exactly? The OP did not give the details of the cooker.
Don't think anyone suggested it was.
However, the 70 deg max operating temperature is not that much lower than that of the butyl (85 or 90 degrees typically). Its *extremely* unlikely that it would be in an ambient environment at that temperature with a free standing cooker. Even built into an enclosure with an oven its unlikely.
No offence intended, but its hard to say; we have not seen enough contributions from you to make any assessment of your level of expertise or otherwise.
? To many people out there think they know how to do
True. However my experience from reading this group over the past decade or so would suggest that many of the folks likely to give electrical advice have a deep and nuanced understanding of their subject. They will normally also highlight any more dubious stuff posted.
Personally, yes I could. I know a good number of others here would be able to also. Indeed, one or two here have sufficient knowledge of BS7671 to run rings round many practising professional electricians.
Much as I hate to interrupt you during a good rant, but that is complete nonsense. The amount of outstandingly crap work I have seen done by some professional "qualified" electricians is unreal.
This *is* a DIY group, however many professional engineers, and electricians also post here. Read through some of the diyfaq electrical articles to get a flavour of the level of advice typically offered, and then feel free to comment:
If you fancy improving some of the articles, the feel free to ask for an account to edit/create pages.
Which is fine, when you have established a reputation for offering helpful, courteous, and accurate advice over a period of time. Wading into a new group and waving your willy about is less likely to win you respect.
Not only that, is the flex outlet you are taking that cable into also rated at that temperature? Otherwise the point is potentially moot.
Is Wodney trying something new, or did someone escape off the Screwfix forums...
En el artículo , Nei Champion 17th edition qualified electrician escribió:
[chomp]I think we finally have a worthy candidate for w_tom's replacement.
That was a lightning response.
En el artículo , Bob Eager escribió:
It was a surge of blood to the head.
This looks suspiciously like advertising spam to me. And champion the wonder horse obviously doesn't understand the concept of a news group which has 'diy' as part of its name.
That is not true for the Taffs and Jocks, f*ck knows what the Micks do
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