Asbestos garage

Hi all, do any of you know how much (roughly) would it cost to change the roof of an asbestos garage to a flat one? Is it worth doing this or would it just be better to build a new garage from scracht?
It's a simple brick garage separated from the house.
Thanks
MGA
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Why change it at all?
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Chris Green ( snipped-for-privacy@x-1.net)

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MGA wrote:

You don't want a flat roof - really, you don't. If someone is holding a gun to your head, sure you have to consider it, but otherwise, don't.
If the asbestos roof is leaking or damaged, then consider a box profile steel roof. It'll cost less than a flat roof, and won't leak.
--
Grunff


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Never heard of box profile steel roofs! Can we fit one on single storey extension in lieu of flat roof or are they just for garages?
TIA
Phil
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TheScullster wrote:

The modern equivalent of corrugated iron. Think any big warehouse - e.g. B&Q or whatever - the roof will almost always be box profile.
It's thin (0.6-0.8mm) galvanised steel that's polyester coated. Comes in many colours.

Well, I think in terms of functionality and building regs, yes you can (with adequate insulation). But aesthetically - garages and warehouses only IMO.
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Grunff


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We're up in Norfolk so a bit of a drive :-) Love it down in the West. It's the one region we would consider leaving Norfolk for, like the rest of the country it seems considering house prices down your way.

What we did, which was a little long winded, was buy some of the long roofing nails with the clip on caps, removed the nails and used the caps with long screws screwed down through the ridges into the purlins. Why we didn't use the washered self tappers as sold by Screwfix I don't know. There was a reason but it's forgotten. I need to keep a journal :-)
Matt
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Matt wrote:

Blimey! No wonder it was hard work.
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Grunff


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MGA wrote:

Is it a pitched roof or a flat (ish) (corrugated?) asbestos cement one? I recently converted a garage roof from flattish to pitched. Procedure: Remove steel edgings and corrugated sheets (use a bolt cutter to snip the bolts or split the nuts). Dispose of sheeting at tidy tip. Affix 4x2 timbers to top of sides of garage (scarf joint in middle of each side nailed is OK). Affix four 4x2 cross-members, one 2" from each end, two equally spaced towards the middle. Cut 4x2 rafters and fix to cross-members and ridge board. Nail on 2x2 battens lenghtwise. Cover roof with 1/2" Stirling OSB. Buy corrugated iron, cut to length with angle grinder, fic to roof (cut end at ridge) ensuring a corrugation overhangs the edge of the Stirling board, and that enough length protudes at bottom of sheet to shiels Stirling board grom rain, & reach to gutters. Nail shiplap to ends. Cut old steel edgings to weatherproof the bottom of each shiplap end. Nail treated tiling batten under end overlaps of corrugated iron, and nail over 100mm weatherboard pushed up into trough of corrugated iron. Nail shiplap along sides to seal. So:
4x2: 2 lengths of garage + 4x (width of garage + 8") + 8 rafter lengths.
2x2: 8x length of garage.
4x1: 1x length of garage.
Stirling board: Enough 8'x4' sheets
Corrugated iron: Enough sheets allowing for overlap (it may be a good idea to select sheet length of say 5' and build the roof to that dimension to save cutting).
Galvanised ridge pieces:4
Nails 4" bright, 2" galvanised clouts, spiral nails+washers+ caps for securing corrugated.
I don't know what prices are where you buy, but that will give an indication. Guttering if you want it (on garden side especially) to be added. Grunff says use square section corrugated - I think this looks awful on a small building like a garage. As an alternative to corrugated iron, you could use Onduline (pitch polymer corrugated sheet) and then you would probably be able to dispense with the Stirling OSB which is to prevent condensation problems with the corrugated iron.
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