A mate of mine wants to get his bathroom done (just to avoid confusion with
anyone who's been reading postings from me about my own bathroom
recently!!). The walls are all artex in there. He's had the following
conflicting advice from several different workmen:
1) Chisel it all off manually as the artex won't support the weight of
2) Sand it down smooth then tile
3) Melt it flat then tile
4) Completely skim over and tile on top
Now I know artex is nasty stuff and the first three options are likely to be
hard work (and 3 sounds downright dangerous!!) ... however will option 2, 3
or 4 work at all with the weight of tiles hanging off them?
Is option 1 as bad as trying to hack off normal tiles or worse? Sounds like
it will lead to re-plastering and skimming afterwards.
This is the cheapest/easiest approach. A good plasterer can skim a whole
room in a day. That's £100-£200 to get a nice smooth wall in your
room. As long as the artex is well stuck to the wall, this is the best
How does the artex bond to the wall in the first place?
and I should think create enough dust to last a decade!
God knows, would probably catch fire or kill you from the fumes!
It sounds sensible as long as it's strong and sound underneath.
Unfortunately it's another 10mm off the size of the room, which for them is
a little bit of an issue. They have a 1700mm bath at the moment, but it
underlaps the wall by about 5mm at each end. B&Q incidentally said they
wouldn't be interested in fitting a bathroom for them because of this!!
Glad to hear it! Wonder why the B&Q guy was so negative ... he actually
told them that "to be honest, they had a lot of bookings in the area and
weren't that interested"! I'd have sent a bill to B&Q to charge the f**ker
for wasting my time!
We had a guy from B&Q round last week and he was actually very good. Far
too much money overall, but he was honest (ie. didn't tow the B&Q sales
pitch) and professional - something far too hard to find these days ....
Kind of does, actually. My recent experience at the weekend (qv other
thread about Nitromors Artex remover, which I wouldn't bother with)
showed that liberal application of a steam stripper caused it to go
soft and gungy; still wouldn't come off the bloody ceiling though.
The plasterer I consulted actually refused to overskim; too much
hassle, plus he reckoned it would all come down and I'd be whinging at
him about it. He has a point in some respects; in some rooms, a lot
of my artex has been applied on top of crappy woodchip, and the merest
whiff of a stem stripper is enough to bring it off - very satisfying!
I suspect that wet plaster on top of that would probably bring it off,
So if you do overskim, make sure the artex is really well bonded to
5) Steam or wash it off. Doesn't work with all artex and might
depend how porus any paint on it is. I imagine a whole room
would create one hell of a mess though.
I did 4, but you have to go over it first knocking off any
particularly prominent bits. Skimming can't really hide much
more than 5mm unevenness (ideally less).
On 27 Jan 2004 23:33:32 GMT, email@example.com (Andrew
Was this kind of skimming covered in your plastering course or is this
one for a full time plasterer?
I have one small area of artex in the utility room which seems to have
begun to lift away from the plasterboard but has not peeled. Do you
think that it's realistic to recover it (I thought of squirting dilute
PVA behind) or is it better to rip it down? I don't have a love
affair with it.......
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
It wasn't covered, but isn't that much different from plastering
on sand/cement/lime scratch coat, which can be quite rough.
First finish coat goes on and fills all the crevices up to the
level of the peaks and you trowel off against those peaks so
they're level with the surface. Ideally you want those peaks to
all lay on the same plane so the first coat is flat. You couldn't
polish this as the artex peaks would get in the way. Second coat
forms a completely covering layer, perhaps 1-1.5mm thick, which
can be polished off with the trowel.
The "full time plasterers" I hired before I could plaster screwed
up by not knocking the artex peaks off first, and then realised they
couldn't polish the wall without those peaks coming through and
making ridges on the surface each time he polished over one.
That was one of the reasons I decided I had to learn to plaster
properly myself -- I wanted a better quality finish that I could
get from the "full time plasterers" I could find.
Well, you could try repair, followed by reskim, followed by rip it
down, depending how it goes. I would probably try a repair first,
unless the artex pattern was something I particularly hated (and
I've still got plenty of those left, Basketweave anyone?;-)
Obviously, you might want to check the reason it's lifting away
isn't something ongoing, and the weight of plaster on it might
well speed up the process.
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote
| unless the artex pattern was something I particularly hated (and
| I've still got plenty of those left, Basketweave anyone?;-)
Basketweave - count your blessings! I've got Drunken Fans overlaid on Swoopy
Has anyone in the group tried using X-Tex
I've been using the sister product, Home Strip, to remove
lead-based gloss paint, and it works a treat, I'd certainly try
X-Tex if I had an artex problem (as long as I was sure there was no
asbestos issue), unless anyone here knows different.
I have no experience of it at all, but given that it's apparently:
etc etc and made by a company called ecosolutions, personally I'd have
my doubts that it will shift Artex...!
I have just finished stripping a cloakroom and utility room of artex , the
thickness varied from 1cm to the thickness of a coat of paint. I used my
trusty wallpaper steamer which removed the lot ( the thinest areas required
quite a lot of scraping though)
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