Ariston 27 Plus boiler ignition problems

Hi,
I have the Ariston 27 Plus boiler. I have had it in the house for over 6 months and it's great. Just before christmas it began to shut down displaying a whole array of red LEDs. I pressed reset and no problem, it fired up and worked for a few days. The same thing happened again getting more frequent resets upto 3-4 times a day.
Then all of a sudden it worked fine, and again today I have had to reset it 4 times. When the red lights (ignition failure) go on, I can still hear some kind of a pump or fan still working. I ranf Ariston and they said that an engineer will call me, but I'm still waiting.
Does anyone have an idea of what's going on?
Reading previous posts some say that it may be a thermocouple - is that easy to fit? or it may be the ignition being dirty - is that easy to clean?
All comments/ advice will be very much appreciated
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Sorry, the information you have given is really a bit useless.
The ignition failure could mean that the control isn't working, the flame sense isn't being registered by the pcb, you have a sticking valve, or various other problems.
Do you have an installation manual ?
--
geoff

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On Fri, 02 Jan 2004 01:13:48 +0000, geoff wrote:

I agree. There are a number of causes but the most likely is something fairly simple like a misplaced ignition probe, slightly wrong ignition gas rate (possibly failed to be checked during commissioning). [This guy has supplied the make and model which is a step up from the going rate of late].
A question for the OP is "Do you hear the tick-tick-tick of the ignition reapeatedly before the boiler locks out or not?"
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Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
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writes

getting
it
some
an
Geoff, Ed,
Thanks for getting back to me
Yes, I do have an installation manual what should I be looking for
and
I cannot hear the tick-tick-tick because I have never actually been there the moment that the ignition goes out - it's sod's law. The moment I turn my back for an hour or so, it goes out. Again, when the red lights go on I can still hear a fan, or pump running.
Take for example today. It has been perfectly well bar one failure this morning, but several last night.
Geoff, I'm sorry that the info I've given is useless - is there any other info in particular that I can add that will help me diagnose this problem?
Ed, I also agree with you in that it is probably something simple, because it works most of the time. All I have to do is press reset and it works again.
My gut feeling says that the PCB may be OK (I'm no expert) but as it works somwtimes and othertimes not. Another note, I have noticed that it conks out mainly in the evening when it is colder (I mean it buggers up in the day as well, but not as frequent)
Again, all help is appreciated
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On Fri, 02 Jan 2004 16:39:11 +0000, Jaswinder Singh Johal wrote:

The manual might give a diagnosis chart. Check that the lockout light is indicating a (repeated) ignition failure and not a catch all including over-heatign and other fautls.
In general modern boilers have micro-controllers and will usually try a certain number of times to light the gas before giving up.
In general modern boielrs ligth the gas directly on the main burner usign a low ignition rate which is then ramped up as needed after the flame is detected.
So the sequence of events will be that having started the pump and fan and proved these sucessfully the boiler will attempt ignition. This is a general pattern your boiler may have an oddity.
1) The PCB may be intermittently duff (possible but not likely). 2) The gas valve opens at ignition rate (not likely to be stuck especially as it does work a bit). 3) The PCB organises a series of HT sparks(could be anything from a buzzing to a click-click-click. The HT generator might be faulty. The HT leads could be shorting (This is why hearing it is important in diagnosis). 4) The ignition electrode could be slightly in the wrong place. 5) The ignition gas pressure or flow rate (known as the rate) could be a bit out this can have a big effect of on the ignition chances. 6) There could be debris on/near the eletrode preventing ignition. 7) The flame is then meant to spread out across the whole burner. There might be a reason why this does not happen reliably. 8) There is likely, another electrode which senses the flame is there. this might be loose etc. dirt debris etc. 9) The PCB might not reliably detect the flame (not likely).
So the easy stuff is to check the spark electrodes, leads etc.
Checking the gas pressure will require you having a gas manometer and knowing how to us it properly and safely so you may need help.
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Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
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thanks very much for that Ed
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Yes, I saw no point in adding to what he posted except that you might have a bad connection somewhere.
Without any information as in what part of the cycle it failed, it's nigh on impossible to help diagnose the fault
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Geoff, Ed,
Thanks for getting back to me
Yes, I do have an installation manual what should I be looking for
and
I cannot hear the tick-tick-tick because I have never actually been there the moment that the ignition goes out - it's sod's law. The moment I turn my back for an hour or so, it goes out. Again, when the red lights go on I can still hear a fan, or pump running.
Take for example today. It has been perfectly well bar one failure this morning, but several last night.
Geoff, I'm sorry that the info I've given is useless - is there any other info in particular that I can add that will help me diagnose this problem?
Ed, I also agree with you in that it is probably something simple, because it works most of the time. All I have to do is press reset and it works again.
My gut feeling says that the PCB may be OK (I'm no expert) but as it works somwtimes and othertimes not. Another note, I have noticed that it conks out mainly in the evening when it is colder (I mean it buggers up in the day as well, but not as frequent)
Again, all help is appreciated
--
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