But there is no evidence at all of any fleecing going on.
I would replace those pads, given the condition they are in. And the damage doesn't look all that likely to have been inflicted by the process of extracting them,
And the price you were charged was quite reasonable overall for the replacement of a set of front disc pads.
Yes. I don't really see the point you're making with that question though. So long as you're careful to match engine to road speed when you try to disengage or engage a gear it just slips in or out nicely with no fuss.
In article , geoff scribeth thus
Yes they did ours, mind you it was 15 years old and just run in at
150,000 miles .. rust I believe, more than wear;!..
Can't remember the price on ours but very little .. I'll look it up if ah can be arsed..
You did bloody what?. No brakes all that way?. Why didn't you get a breakdown truck to take you home?..?...
In message , Alex Heney writes
The second photo tells a very different story from the first
I think that, give someone as clueless as the OP, and with the attitude shown, I think the garage prolly had little choice to have changed the pads as opposed to prolly getting sued for negligence if they had failed
6 months laterOP - cars and human bodies are both mechanical machines, I think you need to learn how both work
You learn something every day. I had four Maxis which all suffered fromthe crankshaft oil seal going and thus ruining clutch plates. Got to the stage where I could and did replace one in 45 mins. at the roadside, I became so paranoid about it happening that I always had a spare seal and plate in the boot together with a drift to centre the pressure when putting the new seal in)!
Depends on if its just a pad change. If caliper or cylinder stiff, or self adjuster stuck, time may mount up. When mine seized on, after a few days layup, they gave the options of how they would proceed before they started. As it happened they got away with the cheaper option of just winding off the self adjuster rather than a full strip down.
I used to do that. Now I anticipate and usually can let the speed reduce in top gear. Fuel consumption has reduced by about 20%, a worthwhile reduction.
Or an early Landrover with no synchro on 1st and second.
I note that the person concerned has suitably chastised you elsewhere in this thread!
I've yet to perfect my skills passing him as he weaves about at such high speeds to the frustration of drivers behind me.
I drove several of Maxis (which were fleet(pool) cars. We never had that problem.
Certainly no less economic on a modern car than using the brakes. Fuel is cut off on the overrun, above about 1500 revs.
In message , snipped-for-privacy@privacy.net writes
Are you telling me that you couldn't before?
Gold star to you, well done
What was the other work? It may be relevant.
From an engineer's perspective most people are mechanical, and operate within the basic priciples of physics/chemistry.
Esoteric pneumatic accelerator, but bog-standard hydraulic clutch, wasn't it on Imps?
So what? The point about engine braking on the gears isn't to use the clutch friction plate as a brake, it's to use the engine as an air compressor.
So great for gentle retardation on hills, no bloody use for sudden stopping.
For a normal carburetor that isn't really why an engine brakes. A diesel doesn't really apply much engine brake because the air-flow doesn't go through restricted air intake.
A normally aspirated petrol engine performs braking because of the suction on the cylinders because the butterfly valve is closed in the inlet manifold on the intake stroke.
Nothing to do with air compression, it's air suction that causes the usual engine brake.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.