Applying silicon sealant

Hi all

I've just fitted my new bathroom and it's time for the silicon sealant, around the edges of the new vinyl flooring as well as the 3-piece suite. In the past I have used my finger to smooth it, and made a really crap job of it - sealant oozing out on either side of finger and difficult to get a nice neat bead. Any tips anyone for applying silicon sealant neatly?

Reply to
truman
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I found a site that had instructions - use masking tape either side of the intended run, then put the sealant on, and use a shaped piece of plastic to make a smooth shaped run, then straight away, remove the masking tape. the key is to prepare the surfaces before - get rid of all dust and moisture

Reply to
Jape

B&Q do a smoothing tool and as mentioned masking tape.

Reply to
EricP

Others have given tips on application. Also, I have found that it often looks neater to use clear silicone - even when sealing two surfaces which are the same colour as the sealant (eg white sealant used on white tiles meeting a white bath). The inevitable cockups seem to stand out less. Of course you must make sure that no unsightly things show through from underneath the sealant!

Reply to
rrh

You shouldn't need to use anything to smooth it after application - just cut the nozzle to the right size, hold at the right angle and apply at the right speed and pressure. That way the only extra sealant will be a bit that gets past the nozzle on either side, which you can peel or scrape off when it's part set. Buy extra and practice :-)

Reply to
Rob Morley

I didn't forget to add it, I just couldn't be bothered to figure out how to explain it without a picture. :-)

Reply to
Rob Morley

You forget to add that you point and push the nozzle in the direction that you're laying down silicone. Cut the nozzle diagonally and press it into the gap so that the cut surface sits symmetrically in the 'v' and parallel to the groove. If you pull the nozzle and trail silicone behind it, you just get a mess.

Reply to
Jan Wysocki

Disposable bog roll - soaked in white spirit.

Use a whole roll, and keep wiping till surplus is all gone.

Use a fresh piece EVERY wipe.

You can also use a sponge rinses out in whie spirit EVERY WIPE, but the final tidying up needs absorbent throway bog roll.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

It's doable, but not with a finger!

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

What with then? I'm about to do my kitchen (been putting it off for ages 'cos I hate silicon!)

Reply to
Bob

i saw it done very neatly last week.

- apply thin bead

- spray area with dilute washing up liquid

- wipe with finger, use lots of kitchen roll

the washing liquid stops the silicon sticking when it spreads beyond the original bead as you wipe it. seemed to work

Reply to
anthony james

Very helpfull!

Reply to
Ric

Smoothing it is certainly doable with a well-soaped finger - see the FAQ.

Laying a smooth, even, perfect bead of silicone sealant is one of those jobs that can only be done by someone who's doing it every day. But the rest of us need all the help we can get, or else we end up with an unsightly mess.

Masking tape makes sure that the finished edges will be straight and clean, and there is no risk of smearing. When you're using masking tape, any excess silicone is no big deal - just lift it off, dump it and carry on smoothing.

The instructions that I wrote for the FAQ were given me by a professional bath-fitter. Every time that I've followed them correctly, the results have been perfect. Not just good - perfect.

Reply to
Ian White

I mask off both sides and then use a gun all the way along with the nozzle angle cut so the nozzle trails the gun. Then quickly run a wet finger (washing up liquid mixed if you want) all the way along wiping any major build up of excess silicone off onto a rag at the end of each straight run (otherwise that crap gets everywhere!) Then strip off the masking tape straight away. I leave at least a gap of 5mm each side from the corner when applying the tape for decent adhesion or it will just come away with a little flexing from the bath/work surface etc.

Don't be tempted to keep touching up small imperfections cause you'll only make it worse!

Reply to
StealthUK

Sorry! It was a crafty attempt to flush out any finger sealant smoothing experts >:)

The FAQ covers it very well:

The only thing I could add is that I found the end of a one piece stainless dessert spoon best for smoothing a bead of sealant.

First use it at a shallow angle to get most of the excess sealant off, then at a slightly steeper angle for the final smoothing.

If doing a line from two ends, start off slightly deeper from the second and go shallower to blend it in with already smoothed stuff. Then blend the 'join' in with a wet finger. It helps if the join is at the least obtrusive end.

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

I have one run where the kitchen worktop meets a tiled window cill, both at exactly the same height. I'm wondering what the best way of tackling this might be - using a spoon or finger would leave a channel, where I suppose a ridge would be better?

Bob

Reply to
Bob

Is the worktop secured to the wall below the cill in some way? How about loosening it off a fraction, doing a flat seal, then tightening it up. This should make the seal slighly convex and allow some movement without the silicone coming under tension.

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

Not directly - it's fixed to the base unit carcasses, two of which are then fixed to the wall. It's also part of an 'L'. The whole length of the work surface is around 14ft - so it would take some shifting! (The window cill is only 5ft of this, however)

Maybe I'll try to cut a template that I can draw along the bead, to give it the right shape (and try to avoid a dent every time I cross a tile grout line!)

Bob

Reply to
Bob

LoL maybe not then!

If the template is bent into a square 'U' or used at an angle it should help with this. Some masking tape either side of the join and a batten as a guide would also help.

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

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