Any tips on re-routing light switch?

[AA]

I'm planning on moving a light switch to the other side of the door frame. It is a new home with an internal blockwork wall with platerboard fixed with dabs. Floorboard access into the ceiling space from above isn't practical.

I'm thinking of getting access to the existing wires through a hole near the ceiling and routing them above the lintel and dropping them down the other side. I think I can drop a weight through a hole to do the latter but going across the top concerns me a bit because it feels a bit more solid. I'm not sure if this is likely to be a continous dab (so to speak) or what. I'm thinking I can probably cut a groove and embed a bit of ducting but am not sure how messy this will all become.

Any hints, tips or suggestions would be very welcome.

Thanks, Aardvark.

[Franko]

There ought to be a continuous dab around all perimeters, internal angles and ceiling/skirting lines if done properly, you may be able to feed the cable across the head if you try mid-point between the ceiling line and the angle bead. Good luck, Franko.

[TMC]

It is normal practice to have the light switch on the same side of the door frame as the door handle if it is on the other side it will always feel wrong

Unless there is a compelling reason to do it don't bother

Tony

[David Hansen]

On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 13:33:48 -0700 someone who may be AA wrote this:-

Make sure the horizontal run is within 150mm of the ceiling and the drop from there to the switch is vertical. If not your cable run is outside the acceptable zones.

[AA]

My compelling reason is that I plan to reverse the door since it opens into the middle of the kitchen instead of the obvious empty redundant space on the other side. It also clashes with the fridge door (the fridge being in the intended space) . With the door reversed the kitchen seems to double in size. Obvious solution is to keep the door closed but in a busy house with busy kids it isn't that practical.

[AA]

That was the other question I didn't ask. I wasn't sure about the acceptability of (or regulations concerning) wiring horizontally above the door. 150mm will be just below the coving. I did ponder removing the coving and wiring (embedded in the plaster) behind the coving. The coving might cover the mess but I might make a mess removing and replacing the coving! That has me thinking, I might be able to push get access to the ceiling space behind the coving and feed the wires using some piano wire or something.....

[chris French]

In message , AA writes

Personally, I would (and have done in similar situations) surface mount the wiring in plastic trunking, which pretty neat is pretty neat, and if painted the same as the wall not to noticeable.

Whne I came to decorate the room again, I would then hide the wire.