Any solid fuel installers out there?

[David WE Roberts]

I am in the process of designing the flue for the stove for the shed. I already have the stove (a Stovax Stockton 4 Multifuel).

I want a rear outlet so that the whole top can be used as a hot plate.

One supplier is stating that a 90 degree (45-straight-45) bend is acceptable in a run of pipe but not connected directly to the rear of the stove.

However Diagram 15 and Paragraph 1.48 seem to show that this is acceptable and further the dimensions of the bends shown at

to tie in neatly with the requiremnt for "maximum 150mm horizontal section from back outlet of the appliance".

The alternative is a 90 degree T with a plug - however this is difficult to sweep without using the access at the bottom and the clearance between the hearth and the bottom of the T is 320mm or just over 1'.

The 45-straight-45 bend is also smoother for gas flow although it will require slightly more clearance behind the stove.

So is there anyone out there who is current and confirm which interpretation is correct?

Cheers

Dave R

[JimK]

at

seem to tie in neatly with the requiremnt for "maximum 150mm horizontal

mount the T outside

JimK

[stuart noble]

HETAS engineers are thin on the ground in my area, and normally linked to fireplace shops. Might be worth having one round to quote.

[Tim Watts]

stuart noble wibbled on Thursday 29 April 2010 10:53

how I found mine...

[David WE Roberts]

No.

[David WE Roberts]

Damn place is over-run with them.

Installing a dry system seems the most popular qualification as well.

Now all I need is a recommendation (for or against).

[JimK]

because?

[David WE Roberts]

For a start the maximum horizontal length allowed is 150mm and the wall behind the stove is 200mm thick so this wouldn't work even if the stove was hard up against the wall. From the link

can see that the 'T' has a distance of 90mm from the junction with the stove to the centre line of the flue so this wouldn't even fit through a

100mm block. Provisional answer is to have the 'T', use the plug to drain out any soot that falls, and have an access point in the next run of pipe to allow the flue to be swept upwards.

[JimK]

"allowed" by whom? Those Building Regs that you don;t have to adhere too as they don;t apply to your shed?!

OK then use a swept T?

best of british :>)

or just take the flue outside asap using a swept T if you like then go straight up?

NB think yours needs a 6inch flue

Cheers JimK

[David WE Roberts]

(1) According to the instalation instructions 5" is fine for a factory made system.

(2) According to all the advice I have seen from suppliers it is better to run the flue up inside not outside. (2a) Why would I want it outside anyway? (2b) Why would I want a long horizontal run which does not comply with the regulations and could pose a fire risk?

(3) Behind the stove is a double block column (200mm solid) from floor to ceiling and there is no way I am cutting a hole through that to fit an outside flue. If I had wanted an outside flue I wouldn't have positioned the hearth in front of the column.

(4) I will conform to Building Regulations wherever possible because I may wish to have the installation certified at some time in the future and because there is usually a sound reason for the regulations.

So far you haven't offered any valid reason to do what you suggest nor have you offered any valid reason not to do as I currently intend.

Perhaps you would care to post details of your HETAS registration?

Dave R

[David WE Roberts]

Further research with other suppliers confirms that the (2*45) bend is not correct for the rear entry to the stove. The recommended way is to fit a T directly to the back of the stove with a plug on the 'downhill' side of the T to allow fallen soot to be extracted. Where there is not enough clearance at the bottom of the T for sweeping the flue, an access plate should be included in the vertical run of pipe above the stove to allow for sweeping.

Research also reveals that the flue pipe is likely to cost more than the stove.

Cheers

Dave R

[David WE Roberts]

Suggested by a stove supplier (who subcontracts his fitting) that HETAS fitters charge £400-500 UKP to fit a flue and issue a certificate. This is more than I paid for the stove, and about the same as the cost of the flue components. DIY certainly seems the way to go.