Hello. I have an old Chubb 'Cruiser' padlock, probably about 30 years old. Still available
- posted
16 years ago
Hello. I have an old Chubb 'Cruiser' padlock, probably about 30 years old. Still available
I've done keys for doorlocks but I dont see how you would for a padlock, as theres no access to the necessary parts - short of destroying it.
There are ways to pick lcoks but afaik none will give you the key details.
NT
I've made keys up for various locks using a suitable blank and some black wax. Simply heat the blank key blade and coat it with a thin layer of black wax. Insert it gently and carefully into the lock then gently turn it in the appropriate direction. It will stop, of course - at which point you turn it back and carefully remove it. You'll see a mark in the wax...cut or file it out. Recoat the blade with wax and repeat.
It takes a while, and the impressions can sometimes be a bit of a puzzle to figure out ( is it a slot, or a groove? ), but the job satisfaction quota is brilliant. If you succeed...get a spare cut straightaway!
Regards,
Then replace it with something like an Abus Discus, because an old Chubb Cruiser can be removed in mere seconds.
"Impressioning" is the term for a web search. You can use simple soot too.
If this is a relatiely recent Cruiser, then you might have trouble obtaining a blank, as the bitt is offset.
Thanks. I don't understand how 'term for a web search' is relevant here. The term impress, in subject above, was given by a locksmith and is presumably a term used by those in that craft; no doubt not exclusively. As previously said the lock is about 30 years old. The bitt (never heard of that word in this context) is indeed offset but I am able to make a blank
Am I missing something? if you mean an Abus Discus as here:
Many thanks, good info which makes sense & I'm a patient soul Regards Nick.
blade
Surely the bits of the lock that need moving to unlock it will also leave impressions on the black wax. If you file away where any mark is made I can see you ending up with a key that turns in the lock but fails to operate it ! Presumably you need to be able to differentiate between the two cases - maybe firmness of impression or some such ?
AWEM
Largely down to feel... If the blade inserted and turned carefully you should be able to feel whether any obstacle is immovable or not. The use of wax, rather than soot, can help to distinguish such obstacles - and determine whether the mark should be cut out or around. You'd soon find out anyway, and there's usually enough leeway in the mechanism to forgive any small errors - though a drop of soft solder can be used to repair larger mistakes ( silver solder is better, if you have the kit ).
Regards,
here:
The Discus design is a close-shackle design, meaning that you can't get bolt-croppers _to_ the shackle. You have to use it in such a way (i.e. attached to a close-fitting staple) that there isn't room to get them in. If you use a large one on a narrow staple, then it may become croppable (although you'd probably find the quickest route to be attacking the staple itself).
The Discus isn't the strongest case in the world (it's only welded sheet) and is certainly breakable with force. To go better though, you're looking at a "limpet" design where the shackle is internal and the whole mechanism fits under a hemispherical lid. A hinged shackle (like the Cruiser) is a backward step.
"impressioning" in Google finds it, "impress" alone won't (in a useful manner)
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.