Just tried this
I have bad memories of pipe irons - but I'm pleased to say this one is the dog's nads. Joint in about 20 seconds. No problems with lead free solder.
Yes - I do use a blowtorch too - but I have a load of joints near cables and in the roof space and frankly, I'd have a lot of trouble with a flame making sure I did not damage something!
It's not cheap but with the number of joints I'm planning to do, it was worth it :)
Wonder what they've changed? I had one some 25 years ago and it was rubbish.
How long does it take to warm up?
You don't have a heat mat?
Donno if that is the same as mine but what I have is a blooming amazing thing. Sling it behind a pipe, covering painted woodwork, make joint, the finer bits of the mat flame side glowing red, remove mat, not sign of heat damage to paint work.
Think I've even played with it, hottest part of blowlamp flame played on an small area it glowing red, take away flame reverse side is hot but not "ouch" hot...
BTBH in a confined sapce like a loft a blowlamp can be a liabilty. It's not so much when making a joint but when you move the flame away as you complete the joint or put it down afterwards. The latter particularly if it doesn't have piezo ignition so there is a temptation to turn it down but leave it lit.
On Friday 26 July 2013 21:16 Dave Liquorice wrote in uk.d-i-y:
About 4 mins. About the same time as final joint prep (I tend to use heat activate flux so make up a fair few joints and bomb through them).
I do - you would not want a cable behind it - you can still scorch things through it (I did just now on a bit I did use a torch on).
OK - mine does not do that - perhaps that's why I went off the idea...
That too. Most of my plumbing is in attic spaces with bits of wood, dust and cables everywhere...
>On Friday 26 July 2013 19:49 Dave Plowman (News) wrote in uk.d-i-y:
I'm guessing the "Pro" might be a factor. The one I tried was of 20 year old vintage and yellow. It took forever. This one is black and 220W.
If it does work reasonably quickly could be a useful tool. Must admit to thinking 220w wouldn't be enough.
You could buy quite a few copper push-fit fittings for the price! They're what I use in confined spaces.
Run plastic pipe and don't put any fittings in confined spaces.
Any plumbing you've done must look a right mess if you follow that principle.
Inadvisable in a loft, IMHO, rodents will gnaw the plastic pipe.
The T&Cs on plumbers' liability insurance often prohibits any work with naked flames in lofts or other confined spaces. The copper press-fit devices are reported to be good, but still rely on an 'O' ring of dubious longevity. I'd prefer a soldered joint in most cases.
In these circumstances I'm now using press-fit fittings. Fast, cold fix and cheaper than copper/brass fittings. The manual press fitting tool costs less than a decent blow torch or the Antex tool. The battery operated press fitting tools are amusingly expensive.
Surely most will already have a decent blowlamp? And end feed capillary fittings are cheap. Quite a consideration on a big job. They're also tried and tested.
Indeed but we were talking about installing pipes where a blow torch would be a fire hazard. Also copper isn't getting any cheaper.
Press fit is also tried and tested BTW.
Not just a fire hazard, but unuseable due to the insurance restrictions.
If a plumber starts a loft fire, his insurance policy probably won't cover him and the lawyers would want take any assets he may have.
Rodents can gnaw copper pipe too.
I have thirty year old plastic plumbing and its fine. I have known copper tube to fail at about 20 years.
I've just had dozens done in the loft.
And a coil or two of plastic.
The solar thermal is all mechanical joints, no solder.
Only those with tungsten carbide dentures; much less likely that plastic pipe or PVC cable insulation.
On Saturday 27 July 2013 09:55 Dave Plowman (News) wrote in uk.d-i-y:
The last joint I did last night was in dim light under the floor. The heads were glowing dull red - I was impressed.
Well, I was until on eof the heads tried to fall off. One negative there...
I have bent the shim - seems tighter now.
On Saturday 27 July 2013 12:37 Roger Mills wrote in uk.d-i-y:
Yep. But I prefer the solidity of solder :)
On Saturday 27 July 2013 12:47 dennis@home wrote in uk.d-i-y:
Plastic is great for certain jobs, but I really have not basis for beliveing it will be reliable in the long term (decades) - especially if a mouse gets a nibble.
On Saturday 27 July 2013 15:07 Steve Firth wrote in uk.d-i-y:
The copper CuproFit or the brass Push Fit Conex? (or another)?
The brass ones look pretty solid but need an expensive tool to demount.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.