Is there any reason not to use ttreated C16 timber to construct my shed given that is only very slightly mor expensive than the non-treated stuff?
Also I'm using a layer of blocks at the base with a dpm between that and the first timber. Should I fix the timber through the membrane to the the block of just let the shed sit on the blockwork? Fixing seems preferable but will bridge the dmp.
thanks again
I was about to ask why you wanted to use 500-year old wood. I'm glad I Googled and didn't! ;-)
My approach with shed building - yes now 4 - is to build the wooden part off a single layer of concrete blocks. The 8 inch height is adequate in my experience to lay the dpm and not give bother with dampness tracking through the fixing bolts. I continue the shed cladding down the blocks using screws and the plastic spacers you get from Screwfix - keeps the rain off the blocks and creates a ventilation gap.
One shed was a rebuild and had a floor with no dpm and the block wall off that - the others have a dpm under the floor only and a block wall from a concrete found.
The advice I was given by a builder was not to use a plastic dpm but use a good bed of silicon in this application - the reason given was that the silicon will never cause any puddling if there is any moisture ingress.
Rob
that is only very slightly mor expensive than the non-treated stuff?
first timber. Should I fix the timber through the membrane to the the block of just let the shed sit on the blockwork? Fixing seems preferable but will bridge the dmp.
Did exactly that with the base. But I did make some u shaped brackets to go over the bottom timber and attach to the brick work to hold the shed down in a storm.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.