My cooker hood comes with a 13amp plug on the end of the connection lead .
The installation instructions say this can be removed and the lead connected
to a double poled switched FCU, with a 3 or 6 amp fuse.
So why is the plug 13amp and the FCU 3 or 6 amp?
What is the reason for this oddity???
Really? The house we've just finished had the cooker hood wired from
the light switch not too far away from it, and since there wasn't an
obvious fuse anywhere in the circuit I put a FCU in when I changed the
hood over for one that actually worked :)
What? Change bulbs and filters? I'd be surprised if there were any live
parts exposed when doing this task. And anything more involved like a
faulty motor would probably involve complete replacement of the hood
*Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
Dave Plowman firstname.lastname@example.org London SW 12
There are always live parts exposed when changing bulbs, our bulb
fittings are an oddment of history, as yet undeterred by the concept
of insulation against fingers. But we dont have isolation switches for
all the light fittings.
But they are just that - switches. They are not suitable for use as
isolators which is what is required here for safe maintenance. Mainly
because a switch only switches the live wire, and depending on the
type of mains supply you have, you may need to isolate the neutral too
(i.e. double pole switching). Switches are also unlikely to have the
required contact clearance inside.
Most (not all) fcu's are double pole.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.