Alternatives to putty?

What alternatives are there to linseed oil putty for padding glass into an internal door?

The doors are clear pine and will be varnished. I guess the varnishing needs to be done before the glazing so that the inevitable bits of stray putty leaving oily marks on the bare wood don't show.

The glass will be held in with a timber bead rather than a fillet of putty. So what ever is used is more to stop the glass rattling than anything else. Half thinking that draft excluder strip would do, are there similar things designed for the job?

I've ruled out anything in the silicone line as should the glass ever need to be replaced silicone will be a right bugger to deal with.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice
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Glazing tape?

Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

Your friendly local double-glazing supplier may sell you some self-adhesive foam tape - comes in various widths and thicknesses - also single-sided or double-sided adhesive.

I've also used the 'rubber' type of draught-excluder strip (particularly for fitting stained-glass, where the rubber deforms nicely around the thickness of the soldered joints. If it's an internal door with standard float glass then use the draught-excluder strip into the door rebate, then the glass, then the beading - adjusted to slightly compress the draught-excluder.

Varnish / finish the door and the beads before fitting the glass.

You're right - silicone is a mare of a job to remove - and guarantees that the 'siliconed-in' glass will come out in tiny pieces!

Adrian

Reply to
Adrian Brentnall

IMVLE its not been a problem.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

butyl putty has replaced linseed..but it still cracks and birds still eat it :-(

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Spaceballs

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An American site but a little googling might produce a European supplier

Reply to
fred

Nov 17 The Natural Philosopher

-show quotedtext -butyl putty has replaced linseed..but it still cracks and birds still eat it :-(

Presume lower odds of that on an internal door...

Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

Presumably that has a less "agressive" adhesive than the white foam mounting pads/tape you can get from the sheds etc? That is next to impossible to remove once it's been on a while.

"security" tape sounds "agressive". Don't really need it to stick to the glass and only to the frame enough to stop it wandering about. The dry glazing ones might be too thick, depends on how squidgy they are. At least I know such things exist.

If the glass breaks it will come out in tiny pieces, it's toughend...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Strips of thin card would work fine too, folded over an edge or 2 of the glass. But really putty etc is only needed if you louse up fitting the beading, or you've got 200w of bass bin within 6'.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

In article , Dave Liquorice writes

Both observations spot on, I've used both.

If the thin stuff is not avail in single sided adhesive then use double sided but don't peel the backer off on the glass side.

Actually, the double sided tape isn't that hard to overcome if you're on the foam side, just cut into it with a fine blade (scalpel) and it will release. The residual tape will peel off as it has bulk strength (when a whole pane is attacked) but not so much when actively peeled from wood.

Reply to
fred

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